CHOPO Wire Muzzles Manufacturer: CHOPO (Europe) Available: Worldwide Options: 30+ sizes Sellers: 8+ (under lots of names) Scavenge Proof: Partially can be covered Bite proof: Yes Because multiple companies sell these muzzles, they have a confusing size/number ‘guide’. Most companies use their own numbers/sizes which means some muzzles have two or more size/numbers even though they are the same muzzle. How it works: CHOPO is the original manufacturer of these muzzles. They have 40+ sizes in total. FDT picked 30 muzzles from their selection and renumbered them 1-30 (no way corresponding to their original model numbers). D&T and LEERBURG (F size) purchased from FDT and kept 1-30 numbers but put their own nosebands on. Now LEERBURG has also started buying directly from CHOPO and have used the correct/original numbers CHOPO use. (C sizes) For example: when we say 1F/20C this is one size with 2 size names. So you would purchase 1 from FDT or D&T, 1F or 20C from LEERBURG or 20C from MTT. All the same muzzle, simple as that. They may have different rubber coating and nosebands but they are still the same model. We have put together a chart that shows all the corresponding sizes/numbers from each company. As well as a folder with a picture of each of the sizes with their numbers. If you are still confused, you likely haven’t been sized by MTT, who will give you the exact sizes you need from all companies. REMEMBER: ONLY Muzzle Training and Tips have the correct size chart for the CHOPO 'M9/M10'. Common names/companies: MTT Store 'CHOPO' For dog trainers ‘M9/M10.’ Dean and Tyler ‘Freedom’ Leerburg ‘Polymer Wire (C/F)’ Chicundscharf ‘CHOPO' What is good or bad about these muzzles will depend on the dog, owner and also size. This list below is generalised. Pro/Cons PROs: Bite proof Large range of sizes For small to xl large dogs Lightweight (considering), normal wire is a smidge lighter. Regular wire and rubberised option (for heat/cold) Nose padding Can be modified (noseband/straps etc.) Good for long tongues Well ventilated Can drink, take treats and pant when correctly fit. CONS: Not great for some muzzle punchers Sleeping in it is more challenging (sometimes) One strap (can add your own) Not as great for determined scavengers (needs easy mods) Companies that sell them size wrong and have incorrect measurements. MTT Info Charts Muzzle Training and Tips are the only ones who have a full and accurate size, measurement and weight chart for these muzzles. Most companies use a wildly inaccurate or incomplete chart, which is unfair to customers who should know exactly what they are purchasing. Measurement Charts I ndividual Muzzle Charts Dog Muzzle Charts Muzzle Comparison Charts Make & Material Nosebands: It is very common to get different nosebands when you purchase from different suppliers. Most companies have their own nosebands made to differ in look, material, size and shape. Even though they will use different ones, sometimes, you can receive an FDT from Leerburg if they have forgotten to swap with theirs. There isn't much difference between the US companies except for sizes like 29C or 30C, where they can come with a longer or shorter noseband. You will also see that MTT sells a 'stock' noseband option. This is the commonly used/sold noseband in Europe which is where I source mine from. Finding muzzles with the thicker company noseband proves more difficult. No matter what, they all provide comfort if they fit correctly. Some prefer the wider nosebands, whereas others want the narrow ones that are easy to mod/change. Rubber: The rubberising on these muzzles can change over suppliers/sellers/orders and sizes. These muzzles are dipped in rubber and you will not always get the exact same as the last. CHOPO (C sizes) usually have thicker rubber than FDT/DT/F sizes. No matter the name or company selling these muzzles, the original manufacturer and the company that deserves the credit is Chopo Czech s.r.o. Because the muzzles are handmade, you will also find slight differences throughout each muzzle. As shown in pic, both muzzles are the same size. The right is just the new 'updated' design without the point over the nose. So some companies may still have old stock, which may seem different to the untrained eye. Member Reviews Easily our favourite muzzles. Pros: lightweight, very breathable, bite-proof, allows the dogs to drink/take treats, variety of sizes allowed us for the best fit, pups liked them the best Cons: price, hurts when a dog runs into you - We love these for our GSD and Staffy. We have a size one and a size 20. Pros: durable, and our pups prefer the more open style face vs a head strap like others. Dogs like being able to drink in them also Plus sleepy puppies in them are hilarious Con: It did take a little time readjusting since they are a little heavier than the Baskerville but nothing that a few rounds of reinforcement training can't fit. - I love them! Great size variety, lightweight. My favourite muzzle compared to others I've used. Cons - painful when the dog muzzle punches you - Muzzle punches from these muzzles are no fun. But the variety in sizing is the best. With minor modifications, this muzzle is the best fit for my Doberman. He’s comfortable in it and allows full unrestricted pants, and it looks great! My dog is not a bite risk, but this would be our go-to muzzle if he were. - I really love it now that yall helped us find the right size. The metal makes it easy to get the best fit while remaining bite proof, I also like that I can clearly see my dog's whole face with it on. My only complaint is that it needs to be attached to another collar to be really secure. I also wish the coating on the weatherproof version was sturdier, it scrapes off too easily. - I love how lightweight it is, very roomy for pant and easy access to provide treats. I would say it’s well made and I feel confident that my dog could not bite through it. My dog is very comfortable in this muzzle! The only real con is the nose pad, it just didn’t sit in the right place for us, e.g. close to eyes. This is personal preference though. But a few modifications can be sorted. Where/How To Purchase LEERBURG ‘POLYMER WIRE’ (US) They are a US-based company but ship internationally (though not recommended due to high postage cost). We recommend using Leerburg if you live in the US, this is so you don't take away options/stock for those who can't luckily order from their own country. Everyone except for the EU (Not the UK) and the US has to order from overseas. Do NOT follow their sizing or measurements. They are incorrect and incomplete for correct sizing. See here for how they size, shipping and wait time info. These are labelled as such: C sizes = CHOPO sizing F sizes = FDT sizing For example, if you want a 16F (FDT), you can also get a 65C; more info on the size/number chart is linked in the information. BUY FROM LEERBURG For Dog Trainers ‘M9/M10’ (WORLDWIDE) See here for how they size, shipping and wait time info. Also applies to D&T but have never recommended buying from them. What to do for the best outcome: Pick the model (M9/M10) and location you want Pick the size needed (1-30) *drop-down may say ‘I will fill my dog's measurements’, click that to select size.* Please do NOT give them any information like measurements, breed, size or age. They WILL size wrong and possibly refuse to refund. Using PayPal ensures you have a backup if they refuse a refund/exchange. They may also help with the return shipping fee. Once purchased, it’s likely they will email/call you for your information, reply to ‘send the size you ordered. They will send it. Not following the above puts you at high risk of getting the wrong size and not returning it. M9= NORMAL WIRE, M10= RUBBERISED USA : M9 Mode l, M10 Model CANADA: M9 Model, M10 Model UK: M9 Model, M10 Model AUS: M9 Model, M10 Model NZ: M9 Model, M10 Model ASIA: M9 Model, M10 Model EUROPE Stores Options are extensive and I highly recommend using google translate and our charts HERE which explain the Chopo sizes/numbers compared to what FDT/Leerburg use (they are the same muzzles just different labelling) CHICUNDSCHARF Chicundscharf is an excellent option for Germany and other EU countries (check with C&S first). Low cost and fast shipping. They have almost all CHOPO/JVM muzzles available. BUY FROM HERE HABEO Great option for Czech/EU but you will need a friend or find a forwarding place like Tiptrans BUY HERE Load More Back To Top

Hard To Fit Dogs BACK TO TOP MEASURING: Measuring is done the same as shown in Measuring Your Dog, but you may have to slightly adjust measurements or get somewhat different ones for your dog. Some of these dogs also have a shorter nose than mouth (think bulldog type mouth), giving you two length measurements. You can see below even the shortest noses can be measured—credit to Deena Minner for the pictures. MUZZLE OPTIONS: Unfortunately, there are far fewer options for short noses out there. MTT is working on getting more options available to these types of dogs. Fortunately, a few brands are still available; the sizing is just much more limited. Some brands available: Please remember we still recommend sizing the correct way rather than just picking one of the options below. M3/M4- B sizes Kruuse buster plastic- Boxer Baskerville classic- Boxer Biothane- custom TYDM vinyl- custom CHOPO- few sizes JVM- few sizes JAFCO- few sizes but very modifiable ROZCHOV- Few sizes plus special French bulldog sizes CHLAD- Few sizes Make sure you read over sizing info and complete measuring and buying correctly. Not just base fit off these pictures below. Load More BACK TO TOP

Modifying a B+F Leather Muzzle (3 Parts) Learn how to modify down the length, chin and straps on a B+F Leather muzzle. Shortening Length (1) STEP 1: To start, measure your dogs nose (as mentioned HERE ) to get the length measurement you need, you want the muzzle to be very close to this length, slightly less is usually preferred but a bit long is okay too. Measure and mark out a line on where you want to cut. I want this muzzle to be 3” length instead of 3.75”. STEP 2: When cutting it is best to cut less as you can always cut again, this way you can test on your dog to make sure you do need to cut more off the muzzle. Make sure you use sharp scissors and be careful. It is fine to cut across the stitching as it is only ‘structural’ near the noseband which will be fixed in later steps. STEP 3: After the first cut you can see I have taken off approximately 0.5” but I still would like more gone, so I recut along the line and got the length down to 3” as shown in the second picture. STEP 4: Next we look at the noseband, you can see the stitching will come undone when cutting, you can either resew it, glue or like I did rivet it. Using a leather hole punch I put in a small hole, which is offset but I’m not fussed on looks, technically you could make it look more centre but as long as it does the job. You can at this stage add more nose padding , I chose not to but it is done the same way as the methods mentioned above. If you put the muzzle on your dog and find you cannot tighten it properly because of the chin or straps, continue to the next section below. Shortening Chin Length (2) STEP 1: This step can be done with the length above or done by itself if the chin is too long but the length is good. You can either approximate how much should come off, or you can put the muzzle on and measure the space it has to move up the nose (if it’s sitting 0.5” away from where it should sit on the nose then you should likely cut the chin down 0.5”-0.75”), the other option is to just cut small amounts at a time and keep rechecking on the dog. Again it is okay to cut past the rivet and over the stitching. STEP 2: Once cut to the desired length you may have some space left to rivet, sew or glue back together. Again even left as is the muzzle is still structurally good. I put a rivet into mine using the leather hole punch. Once complete, if you put on the dog and now find that the straps are too long or in the wrong position you can continue to the next step to modify the straps. Modding The Straps (3) STEP 1: You can modify the straps with length and chin or may just be fixing something a dog chewed, either way fixing the straps is quite easy to do. You can pull apart the rivet and remove straps that way but I usually just cut off the strap entirely. STEP 2: Once cut you need to position the straps in the correct angle and position. It can help by getting the general position you want, putting a hole and rivet/stitch into it and then place the muzzle on the dog, then move the strap angle to the position you want. Pinch/hold that position, take off the dog and put in a hole/stitch to hold it there. Trim around the strap/muzzle to line them up and then complete on the other side. After this you should be all done!.

Prestige Wire Manufacturer: Prestige Pet Names: Prestige Location: AUS Ships: AUS Options: 8 sizes Sellers: 5+ Scavenge Proof: Partially, would need to cover the front for some dogs Bite proof: Yes Muzzle in pic is small for the dog Pros & Cons What is good or bad about these muzzles will depend on the dog, owner and also size. This list below is generalised. PROs: Bite proof Lightweight (for wire) Nose padding Multiple sizes Available online and in pet stores Suitable for drinking, rewarding and panting when properly fit Measured accurately CONs: Cheaper straps Straps placed weird (can replace) Only in Aus Smaller sizes MTT Info Charts Muzzle Training and Tips are the only ones who have a full and accurate size, measurement and weight chart for these muzzles. Most companies use a wildly inaccurate or incomplete chart, which is unfair to customers who should know exactly what they are purchasing. Measurement Chart Dog Muzzle Charts Muzzle Comparison Charts Make & Material This muzzle is made from a strong and welded metal, it is strong and hard to break. The noseband that comes on them is okay for moth dogs but it is fairly minimum and you may need to add your own, the straps are even cheaper nylon material and sit lower on the muzzle which usually result in needing to be modified. It has a plastic quick release Where/How To Purchase https://www.mypetwarehouse.com.au/prestige-wire-dog-muzzle-large-p-2841 https://www.petzoo.com.au/prestige-wire-dog-muzzle-large https://shop.stefmar.com.au/prestige/prestige-wire-dog-muzzle-lrg Back To Top

Closed Measurements MTT has a particular way to measure your dog, which we believe is the best way to get a good fit; At the same time, some places may suggest differently, so when we refer to measuring your dog, the methods listed below are the only ones MTT use as it has been changed and improved by experience over the last 6 years. This page will cover measuring length, width, closed height and closed circumference. Disclaimer: Firstly if your dog is a bite risk to you or doesn't allow hands/things near their face we DO NOT RECOMMEND MEASURING them. Putting your dogs through unnecessary stress when it is possible to use other methods (listed below). On another note please DO NOT use your hands to open your dog's mouth. You should not measure if you have to force any more than a comfortable level. How To Get Your Dogs Closed Measurements (4 Parts) 1: Length Length measurement is the exact length of your dog's nose, taken down from the eyes to the tip of the nose. We recommend measuring 0.5” down from the eyes, depending on the dog and where you want the muzzle to sit this may slightly differ. You can see in the photo there is a .5" gap between the eyes and the measuring tape. Length is measured exact because the 'adding length' to ensure it doesn't sit on the tip of the nose is done when sizing the muzzle. You need exact measurements to compare to the measurements of the muzzle. If your dogs exact length is 3.25" you need to find a muzzle that is roughly 3.75" to add the room to keep off the nose. 2: Width The width is the exact same as length but the other way over the nose. It is the imaginary straight line from one side to the other. It is not measured over the nose with a curved tape measure. It would be easier As an example, the widest width we have gotten is only 5.5" as an exact measurement which was a very large dog and the smallest is 1". Width is more relaxed than the other measurements as most muzzles can be modified and most dogs do okay with a slightly wide muzzle, however a muzzle that is too narrow will likely not work for any dog since it will restrict pant as well as being very uncomfortable. 3: Closed Height This is a straight-forward measurement and exact. It does not include jowls, yawning, mouth partially open, etc. Closed height is taken up the side of the snout from the top to the bottom at the tallest part. The tape measure should not be curled at all. Ensuring this measurement is correct is really important when sizing a muzzle because an incorrect closed height can instantly give you the wrong fit if approximating the open measurements when sizing and measuring. If you can get a panting measurement then this measurement is not needed but if you can't get a panting measurement this part is very important to get right when guessing how much extra height their pant is. 4: Closed Circumference This is measured around the base of the mouth at the widest/tallest part with a soft measuring tape or a string. Straightforward measurement to get. Taken snug, not tight or loose. If they have jowls, just do it snug and read over the jowly dog tabs. Make sure you measure at the widest/tallest part of the snout. You will need to use a soft tape measure or a string then measure the string with your straight tape measure. This measurement is not really helpful when paired with the other measurements, though it is a good one to get IF you cannot get the others like width and closed height. Back To Top

Should You Muzzle Your Dog? While MTT strongly believes all dogs should be muzzled trained, we also want to ensure people aren't muzzling their dog/s for the wrong reasons. Here you will learn why people muzzle their dogs, as well as situations where a muzzle is not appropriate to be used or relied on. Reasons To Muzzle Muzzles come in handy for all sorts of reasons, Not every dog needs to be muzzled, but it never hurts to muzzle train any dog. These are some of the reasons people may muzzle their dogs: Bite risks due to aggression or reactivity towards strangers or dogs Bite risks at the vet (some dogs may be charming in every other situation, but nothing will make them like your vet) Bite risks in other situations, such as an injury or emergency (even friendly dogs can bite when they're in pain) Scavenging/eating things they're not supposed to (like poop!) In place of a cone after surgery/medical care Breed-specific legislation (BSL) Bite work training Greyhound racing/lure coursing Some dogs have fragile skin, and their owners will muzzle to prevent any accidental injuries while they play together Introducing new dogs to a household, just in case Prey drive Some places drop poisonous baits Rough play Some stores require them Public transportation BECAUSE WE CAN! You don’t need a reason to muzzle train your dog. It’s no different to crate training (something we also highly recommend). Even if you never crate them, there’s always a chance you may have to, so why not? It’s fun, rewarding and can keep everyone safe, happy and calm if it’s ever needed. Reasons NOT To Muzzle TO STOP BARKING Muzzles should not EVER be used to stop barking. A dog barking is a training issue and having a muzzle that would stop barking would be having a muzzle way too small for your dog. If you think using a muzzle to keep their mouth closed is okay, you should not be muzzling or probably shouldn't own a dog. Using a tight/small muzzle is no different to using rope or tape, its lazy, cruel and not necessary. There are many companies that advertise their muzzles as bark stopping, which is so unfortunate that these dog companies advocate for this kind of abuse and neglect instead of advocating for a correct fit and proper training. If your dog can't bark in their muzzle its very likely much too small and dangerous for your dog. More info on this in using a muzzle. AS PUNISHMENT Using a muzzle as punishment is a good way to make your dog even worse. It is devastating that we even have to add this here but having see people first hand say they use the muzzle this way it must be said. The main issues dogs have are biting, chewing and barking, if you put on the muzzle AFTER they do these things in order to punish and stop them, then you need not have a dog. Stop being lazy, stop being cruel and train your dog to love the muzzle and use it to work on the training they need. But it worked for your dog? We don't care if an abusive method worked for your dog. I'm sure it did work at suppressing behaviours and losing all trust from your dog. TO REPLACE TRAINING Muzzles are a band-aid; they stop the bite, not the behaviour. While muzzling, you also need to work on your training. You cannot just throw a muzzle on and go on with your dog being rude/nippy etc. Dogs can still do damage in a muzzle. You will absolutely need to continue training your dog, just like anyone else has to, for the whole dog's life. Unfortunately we have a few members who come here to try find the quickest fix to their dogs problem, which is usually a muzzle. But slapping on a muzzle and expecting it to train your dogs is like putting on a leash and expecting a dog that already pulls, not to pull. Its just not possible. A muzzle is one part of training, it's up to you to complete the other parts too. TO LEAVE ON UNSUPERVISED Muzzles should never be used unsupervised as they could try chew the muzzle and choke or get caught in/on something. They could also remove the muzzle which defeats the whole purpose. If your dog, chews, fights etc then you need to either find an alternative whilst gone, like crating, chaining, separating etc. If you find yourself questioning if your dog needs a muzzle, it's pretty likely that they do. Even if they don't, why not? Having a dog muzzle trained is a huge benefit if it is ever needed, the dog will have no issues wearing one. Members Comments Below "He is safe, secure and makes walks so much more easy-going on both of us, no need to feel nervous walking around corners and people appearing suddenly, or people stepping out from their fenced-in gardens/drives and spooking him causing him to react. He is more comfortable and relaxed; I am more comfortable and relaxed, making for a tighter bond and a happier walking experience!" -Katrina Jayne "Allows me to let him continue to do the things he loves to do (go for walks in public areas) and train him in public without fear that he will end up in trouble. He is fear reactive, so the muzzle has given me a sense of security for my dog's safety, my safety and everyone around safety." -Karyn Ward "It allowed me to be less anxious at the vet, always expecting him to bite someone out of fear. Now I can go into an appointment with confidence, knowing he cannot bite anyone, which has helped him immensely and made him feel less anxious while wearing his muzzle. I think it makes him feel protected somehow" - Aubrey Heffner "Raja - I can safely take him on walks knowing he can't lash out aggressively if he reacts to another dog. People tend to give us more space, and they avoid letting their dogs get up close in his face, which is his biggest trigger. Rayna has mild SSA, and with her muzzle, she can safely run around with my sister's female dog because I know she can't bite her. It opens up her ability to interact with other dogs. my stress is lower because I know if she does get aggressive, she can't bite." - Rebecca Burnham "He can now mooch about in the garden off lead without me worrying about him picking up stones or random rubbish (he has PICA).- Heather Barlow "He used only to be able to come on adventures in cool weather in his poorly fitted Baskerville because I knew he couldn’t pant properly (but wasn’t smart enough to figure out how to solve it ). Now he gets to go on desert trips, and I’m confident he can pant and play in the water!"- Lisa Volungis "My boy is a completely different dog while muzzled. He calms down; he listens, lets people near him and WAGS HIS TAIL!!! Without it, he is hard to handle. He's a little over a year old, so he is very energetic. He's more dog than I can handle, but the muzzle complete changes everything for the better" - Leslee D V "Muzzling has vastly improved my dog's quality of life. It allows us to go on walks and visit with family with peace of mind. Hopefully, it never comes to it, but it may save his life." - Hayley Streidinger "Before muzzling, I had to keep Bella on lead and away from dogs at all times. Now because of the muzzle, I have managed to train her around other dogs where she is now at a point where she can politely greet dogs with no aggression or give normal warnings without going from 1 to 100 in seconds."- Sarah Louise Foreman "We go on so many more adventures and to new places without the worry of an off-leash or out of control dog!! It has given us so much peace of mind and enriched my dog’s life!!!" -Danielle Cadman "It helped to make me more relaxed when out with him, knowing he couldn't bite, which translated to him being more relaxed and then we were both more focussed and in a better headspace for training. We are now at the point we can actually enjoy walks now" - Diane Hamilton

Noseband Mods (3 Parts) Please note this page is for changing and replacing nosebands, it does not include cutting down the original noseband muzzles have to help length fit better, this information is in the wire/other length mods tab. Wrapping The Noseband (1) Some members will wrap their nosebands for extra comfort or to cover the wire after modding down the length. This is also recommended to do if you’ve modified your noseband down to the wire. You can use vet wrap, felt, neoprene, yarn etc. Just remember some things stay on/cleaner than others. The pictures show multiple examples of members wrapping their nosebands to either create extra padding or just to make it look nice. Either way, it's a straightforward task for most dog owners. Adding A Noseband/Padding (2) Some muzzles don’t come with a noseband (like greyhound and Baskerville); adding a noseband yourself can help with comfort. Adding a noseband can take some height, depending on how thick you make it. You can add a noseband to these by using vet wrap, yarn, neoprene etc. It was done by wrapping, sewing, gluing or riveting. Adding A Biothane Noseband (3) Some members have removed the nose pad on their wire altogether and replaced it with biothane straps. To do this, you need to remove the rivets from the original nose pad, take it off, measure how much biothane you need, add holes, and use Chicago screws to put it back on. If replaced with biothane, you will need to keep an eye on the dog's nose as it can cause rubbing on some dogs. You could also use vet wrap over the biothane to add more padding for comfort. Usually, you will only need 1/2" biothane for smaller muzzles and 5/8" for larger ones, its always best to measure to make sure, but that is the standard for the most part. Members Custom Noseband (4) This member has gone to a collar maker and asked for custom nosebands to be made to match their dogs harnesses. We love the idea and think it looks great! They've used nylon type material, press studs to easily remove and soft padding underneath. This maker was a friend in Europe so you'd be best finding someone close by to do similar Full credit to Lucia Bohlen for the idea Making A Noseband (5) Items used: Biothane (I used 19mm gold standard) Faux leather sheet (I ordered A4 size) Soft Felt sheet (used 3mm thick) Chicago Screws (4mm) Leather Thread (or thick thread) and Needle Scissors Stanley Knife/box cutters Pencil/ Marker Screwdriver Pliers Glue (optional) Rope (optional) Step 1. Measure the biothane for the length of the muzzle pad and cut it to size. Measure where holes will be for Chicago screws to attach to the muzzle. Drill the holes (used a 4/5mm drill to fit the 4mm Chicago screws) Attach the biothane strip to the muzzle to see if it fits the take off. I kept the flat part of the screws inside the one side of the biothane holes, only taking out the actual screw side. Step 2. Measure felt. One-piece to go underneath the biothane and one piece to go on top. (See diagram) From the diagram, you can see where I cut two pieces out of the felt (top piece) 1 either side, so the screws on the biothane are visible for easy screwing. Stitch the two felts together with the biothane sitting inside. At this point, I cut and glued a soft piece of rope to the top of the felt. (See diagram). This is where the metal of the muzzle would be hitting my dogs face. This acts as a barrier. Measure and wrap faux leather around to cover (diagrams for the shape I used). Again cut two pieces out the same as we did for the felt to allow for re screwing onto the muzzle. (I glued the two leather ends together so that I could stitch without it moving or opening up). Cut felt to size for placement underneath the leather where the nose would touch. (This is optional, but I did it to prevent any rubbing on my dog's nose). (You can use glue lightly to stick the pieces together to make it easier to stitch for the next step. This can stop any movement. Step 3. Stitching it all together, leather and felt, to prevent any moving and to seal the sides. I used leather thread and a thick sharp needle. I went around the edge as neatly as I could. Step 4. Attach to muzzle. I had to get extra hands to help for this as the biothane is thick and to be able to close the Chicago screws I had to use pliers to help press the biothane down for it to line up. I also stitched the nose pad to the muzzle with two loops to keep the rope barrier in place. credit to Sophie Price

ROZCHOV Wire Muzzles A new brand of wire muzzle has been made available to you by MTT. Available in the EU and now worldwide these muzzles are very similar to CHOPO but not the exact same. We think they are better than CHOPO with many more sizes fitting dogs better. Manufacturer: ROZCHOV Location: Europe Ships: EU only unless from MTT (Worldwide) Options: 50+ sizes Sellers: 2+ Scavenge Proof: Partially can be covered Bite proof: Yes When I started adding ROZCHOV info to our website I noticed that most suppliers listed it by breed and they had no consistent sizes/charts or measurements. I spent a lot of time working out the correct numbers/options based on many websites and was finally able to list all sizes because MTT feels that listing sizes by breed is inaccurate and affects the chance of getting a well fit muzzle and sizing correctly. Below The chart shows the corresponding breeds/numbers, this is mainly for our European members needing to find the sizes on EU stores. Pros & Cons What is good or bad about these muzzles will depend on the dog, owner and also size. This list below is generalised. PROs: Bite proof Large range of sizes For small to xl large dogs Lightweight (considering), normal wire is a smidge lighter. Regular wire and rubberised option (for heat/cold) Nose padding Can be modified (noseband/straps etc.) Good for long tongues Well ventilated Can drink, take treats and pant when correctly fit. CONS: Not great for some muzzle punchers Sleeping in it is more challenging (sometimes) One strap (can add your own) Not as great for determined scavengers (needs easy mods) Companies that sell them size wrong and have incorrect measurements. MTT Info Charts Muzzle Training and Tips are the only ones who have a full and accurate size, measurement and weight chart for these muzzles. Most companies use a wildly inaccurate or incomplete chart, which is unfair to customers who should know exactly what they are purchasing. Measurement Chart Individual Muzzle Charts Muzzled Dog Charts Muzzle Comparison Charts ROZCHOV may look very similar to CHOPO or JVM, but they are entirely different manufacturers/makers. You can see these muzzles nosebands are primarily under the wire compared to CHOPO which have the extra 'square' to move the noseband back. They are slightly lighter than CHOPO muzzles and are easier to bend. The straps and noseband are cheaper faux leather and may need replacing. In pic: Normal wire is the ROZCHOV, rubberised is a CHOPO. Make & Material Where/How To Purchase EUROPE Stores Options are extensive and I highly recommend using google translate and our charts HERE Great option for Czech/EU but you will need a friend or find a forwarding place like Tiptrans BUY HERE Back To Top

No Escape Harnesses Credit to: Aylin Da One important piece of gear when working with (or owning) fearful dogs is a safety/no escape/"escape-proof" harness (no harness will ever be 100% escape-proof). It's not something that's really necessary for your average dog but incredibly helpful and important for fearful dogs. Usually these are foreign rescue dogs but can be from various backgrounds. When I first got my current dog, he could not go off leash, I did not (exclusively) walk him on a collar. He's a Romanian rescue dog that did not get to know a lot of things before arriving at the shelter I was volunteering at at the time. To him, bikes were scary, other people were scary, children were scary, strollers were scary, walking poles were scary, and so on. Many other foreign rescue dogs and their owners have a similar experience. I do not consider my dog a (very) fearful dog. If he ever did escape, I would however describe him as a fearful dog (but that is a post for another day). I used to use a no escape harness for him for several months and still do in certain situations (e.g. a couple of days leading up to and after New Year's Eve). A regular harness only has one strap behind the front legs and dogs can easily back out of them. A harness with a second belly strap will help keep these dogs safe in the beginning stages. For some, that's a couple of weeks, some a couple of months, some never "graduate" to a different kind of harness or collar only. There are different types and brands of no escape harnesses - padding or not, connection between both belly straps or not, different number of leash attachments etc. It can get confusing if you're new to them, just like different types of muzzles can be confusing when you're new to muzzling. I've listed four common types/brands and their differences below though to give you a rough idea: 1) Ruffwear Web Master - this is the one you'll probably most commonly see, two buckles, first and second strap are not connected underneath; there are also various off-brand versions of this harness, which will work just as well. See notes for a list of different ones.¹ 2) Sientas - popular in Germany and with a lot of rescue organizations. I do like these for rescue mutts because they seem to accommodate their proportions the best.² No padding for the most basic version but padding can be added when ordering. First and second strap are connected underneath, four buckles. 3) AnnyX - another popular brand in Germany, padded, first and second strap are connected underneath, four buckles. 4) Grossenbacher , most similar to Ruffwear Flagline - my personal favorite, very lightweight, four buckles, first and second strap are connected underneath. Issues with 1) and 2): 1) First and second strap are not connected. This causes the second belly strap to slide further back than it's supposed to. This is an issue for two reasons. One, it's sitting behind the ribcage and pressing into the dog's intestines (or genitals, definitely more of an issue for male dogs), especially if the dog is trying to back out of the harness and adding additional pressure to the second strap. Two, if the strap is sitting more diagonally, it's impairing overall security of the harness because the strap won't be as tight as it would be when sitting correctly. This could lead to the dog being able to back out of this harness after all. Ruffwear's Brush Guard (or alternatively their Core Cooler ) is an easy fix for this. 2) When opting for the unpadded version, this could cause rubbing and hot spots. Obviously padding would fix this. How to properly fit a no escape harness: 1. Measure around neck 2. Measure around chest behind front legs 3. Measure around the end of ribcage 4. Measure back length Once you have your harness, it needs to be adjusted properly as well. Second belly strap should roughly sit on the last two ribs (see first image) and will need to be tighter than the deepest/widest part of your dog's chest behind the front legs (see second image). That way, the harness can't be pulled off (similar to how a snug collar when securing a muzzle - or martingale/slip collar - works). You don't want the harness to press into your dog's intestines or genitals (see third image). For extra security, you do want to use two leashes, one attached to the harness and your body and one attached to collar and held in your hand. Carabiners can break or snap, leashes can tear. Should this happen and you only have one leash attached to the harness, even the best fit no escape harness won't do you any good. First image: one leash attached to harness only - this will work but if leash or hardware break, you will have a loose dog Second image: two attachment points, both harness, collar not available - better than 1) but if for some reason the harness snaps or the dog manages to back out of it after all, you have no backup Third image: two attachment points, harness and collar - this way you have a backup both if something breaks and if your dog manages to back out of the harness for whatever reason after all (generally if it's an ill fit or not adjusted right) You can use various types of collars but these are the ones I would recommend for backup security purposes: 1) Martingale 2) Slip or limited slip 3) Regular flat collar Do keep in mind that all of these, when at their tightest in the case of 1) and 2), need to be tighter than the widest part of your dog's head to be effective as a backup security measure. How it prevents them from backing out of the harness: As explained above, the second belly strap is tighter than your dog's deepest/widest part of the chest behind the legs. Most commonly, with a regular harness, you will hold the leash in your hand, your dog will back up and often make a bowing motion with their head down. Now the harness can easily slip over the head and legs. The dog is no longer wearing a harness and is able to run off. This won't happen with a no escape harness. If your dog is overweight, the second strap might not be any tighter though, simply due to your dog's shape - body conditioning score (BCS) of 6/7 (depending on the dog) or above. In this case, I highly recommend using a collar as a backup (and ideally connecting it via neckline) as well. And speaking of shape and proportions, these harnesses - while adjustable - won't fit every dog the same. Some dogs have longer backs, some dogs have a less noticeable tuck than others and so on. Harness in Action (Video) Disclaimer: Please note this video was originally meant for evaluation purposes with minimal intervention. This is not how I recommend handling a situation like this. You will see the video cuts off at the end because I did not want the dog to go into overdrive and react even more intensely. Not shown in the video (due to me stopping the recording to focus on the dog and managing the situation) is me grabbing the dog's harness and applying slight pressure. This helps both keep the dog from literally spinning out of control and to calm the dog down/interrupt the behavior ("conditioned harness pressure"). Ideal setup for an extremely fearful dog: - No escape harness - Collar - 2 leashes (one attached to harness, one attached to collar - one attached to your body, one in your hand) - GPS tracker (optional but highly recommended) - Attaching harness to collar via neckline/short leash/carabiner etc. for extra security (optional)

Redline Vinyl Manufacturer: Redline Location: USA Ships: Worldwide Options: 2 sizes, clear only Sellers: 3+ Scavenge Proof: Yes Bite proof: yes unless clear with treat hole Pros & Cons What is good or bad about these muzzles will depend on the dog, owner and also size. This list below is generalised. PROs: Multiple places to purchase Scavenge proof Bite-proof (excluding with the treat hole) Softer Felt nosebands Clear Vinyl 3 Strap Options Treat hole option CONS: Longer nose lengths More costly Smaller/limited sizes MTT Info Charts Muzzle Training and Tips are the only ones who have a full and accurate size, measurement and weight chart for these muzzles. Most companies use a wildly inaccurate or incomplete chart, which is unfair to customers who should know exactly what they are purchasing. Redline Charts Dog Muzzle Charts (none yet) Muzzle Comparison Charts Make & Material The muzzle is made of Clear vinyl or Black polyethylene plastic with reinforced neoprene or leather straps. The clear is flexible vinyl, and available in all sizes/brands mentioned, comes as shown with a single strap configuration or with a "third strap" that extends from the bridge of the dog's nose up between the eyes to connect with the strap behind the ears. Available as shown or with a large "treat hole" in front for most sizes. The black muzzle is made of lightweight, high-density polyethylene and available from ray Allen; it comes as shown with a single strap configuration or with a "third strap" that extends from the bridge of the dog's nose up between the eyes to connect with the strap behind the ears. Available as shown or with a large "treat hole" in front for most sizes. All sizes have a felt noseband, and you can easily add quick-release buckles to these straps and modify, decorate etc. Look-A-Likes To tell RAY ALLEN and REDLINE clears apart, the RAY ALLEN has white felt where as the REDLINE has black, with full black straps (unlike JAFCO). Where/How To Purchase https://redlinek9.com/collections/muzzles/products/clear-plastic-muzzle?variant=39732453474500 https://www.dogsportgear.com/RedLine-K9-Plastic-Dog-Muzzle--Clear_p_253.html Back To Top