Biothane Muzzles Maker: Trust Your Dog Muzzle Location: USA Ships: USA & CANADA addresses (can look at forwarding addresses) Options: custom Manufacturer: Khaos Kollars Location: USA Ships: Worldwide Options: custom Manufacturer: Truffle Muzzles Location: EU Ships: Worldwide Options: custom Manufacturer: Urban Dog Biothane Location: USA Ships: Worldwide Options: custom Pros & Cons What is good or bad about these muzzles will depend on the dog, owner and also size. This list below is generalised. PROs: ​ Custom Lightweight Easy to modify/add noseband Colourful Add treat holes CONS: No nosebands NOT bite-proof More Costly Longer wait times Must get measurements correct Not all ship worldwide NOT Bite Proof Because of the material and flexibility of biothane, these muzzles are NOT bite proof. Many dogs can and will get a bite through the muzzle. ​ An exception to this is small dogs. The smaller the muzzle the stronger it is. While we don't recommend it for every small dog it is a good option if you can't find anything else suited. ​ If you are using for scavenging you will also need to make sure the muzzle is fully strapped. Use at own risk if putting on bite risk dogs. Make & Material BIOTHANE Almost all biothane muzzles will be made from Biothane 520 (beta), BioThane® is the brand name of all coated webbing products made by BioThane Coated Webbing Corp. It’s basically a polyester webbing with a TPU or PVC coating that makes it more durable, waterproof, easy to clean and weldable. ​ BioThane® is more durable, cleanable, stronger and easier to maintain than leather. It is also readily available in different colours. BioThane® is manufactured in their only plant located in North Ridgeville, Ohio in the USA. ​ Depending on what you want there is multiple widths and types of biothane, as well as reflective types. If you are making it yourself there is many options but some muzzle makers may only use specific types and sizes. ​ HARDWARE The type of hardware you can use is vast. Most go with metal buckles or quick release clips with metal chicago screws as these are usually the strongest. Chicago screws are recommended for at least the straps on the muzzle. The rivets can be used over the basket of the muzzle just make sure all are snugly on and not bent/loose. ​ You can also put a buckle and quick release clip on the head strap so its adjustable but easily removed and put on once size is adjusted. ​ For more info on making a biothane muzzle yourself see HERE . BUMAS are not recommended BUMAS muzzles are not recommended for a number of reasons. Not only do they greatly overcharge but they make the muzzles too small, awkward shape and then refuse to fix or refund. There is so many other sellers out there that make amazing muzzles for sometimes half the cost. There's no need to go into detail since it's simple, if you don't want to pay a lot for a muzzle that likely won't fit, don't buy from there and use any of the other great sellers we recommend. It is very unfortunate that people still continue to recommend BUMAS even without buying from them their selves, do your research. ​ As an example for my medium dog based on closed circumference alone the muzzle starts at $400AUD. I could buy a Khaos Kollar for that and then 5-6 wire muzzles on top. See what we are saying? EXSPENSIVE! Where/How To Purchase Be sure to contact the makers of these muzzles before measuring and purchasing your muzzle. They will likely need different measurements than us as they are a custom muzzle, where as are our methods help size into already measured muzzles. TYDM: https://www.trust-your-dog.com/ ​ Truffle Muzzles: https://www.trufflemuzzles.com/ ​ Khaos Kollars: https://khaoskollars.com/ ​ Urban Dog Biothane: https://urbandog.in/ Member Reviews TYDM Biothane "The website is straightforward to use, and Amy sends you an email after your order to verify colour preferences, snout orientation, measurements, and to see if she needs to add a little extra room to accommodate a full pant. We waited about eight weeks for each muzzle. The fully strapped biothane is very sturdy, great for scavengers. However, it can be a little hefty with all the straps and hardware. I regret going with the treat hole instead of the open nose design, as my dog loves to sniff, and you can still treat through the nose hole. Ours has been fortified with metal on the inside and has prevented a couple of bite incidents. They are a little pricey, but custom sized and lots of colour choices available." - URBAN DOG BIOTHANE "Pros: light weight, good for controlled leashed walks, easy to reward for muzzle conditioning, nice colours, keeps people away (lol), price was fair (but I get discounts) Cons: not bite proof (wire muzzle coming for when I start working on him with new people), fairly long wait time due to Canada post losing a lot of packages (had to remake all lost products before starting my muzzle)." - Send yours in to add Load More Back To Top

Modifying a B+F Leather Muzzle (3 Parts) Learn how to modify down the length, chin and straps on a B+F Leather muzzle. Shortening Length (1) STEP 1: To start, measure your dogs nose (as mentioned HERE ) to get the length measurement you need, you want the muzzle to be very close to this length, slightly less is usually preferred but a bit long is okay too. Measure and mark out a line on where you want to cut. I want this muzzle to be 3” length instead of 3.75”. STEP 2: When cutting it is best to cut less as you can always cut again, this way you can test on your dog to make sure you do need to cut more off the muzzle. Make sure you use sharp scissors and be careful. It is fine to cut across the stitching as it is only ‘structural’ near the noseband which will be fixed in later steps. STEP 3: After the first cut you can see I have taken off approximately 0.5” but I still would like more gone, so I recut along the line and got the length down to 3” as shown in the second picture. STEP 4: Next we look at the noseband, you can see the stitching will come undone when cutting, you can either resew it, glue or like I did rivet it. Using a leather hole punch I put in a small hole, which is offset but I’m not fussed on looks, technically you could make it look more centre but as long as it does the job. You can at this stage add more nose padding , I chose not to but it is done the same way as the methods mentioned above. If you put the muzzle on your dog and find you cannot tighten it properly because of the chin or straps, continue to the next section below. Shortening Chin Length (2) STEP 1: This step can be done with the length above or done by itself if the chin is too long but the length is good. You can either approximate how much should come off, or you can put the muzzle on and measure the space it has to move up the nose (if it’s sitting 0.5” away from where it should sit on the nose then you should likely cut the chin down 0.5”-0.75”), the other option is to just cut small amounts at a time and keep rechecking on the dog. Again it is okay to cut past the rivet and over the stitching. STEP 2: Once cut to the desired length you may have some space left to rivet, sew or glue back together. Again even left as is the muzzle is still structurally good. I put a rivet into mine using the leather hole punch. Once complete, if you put on the dog and now find that the straps are too long or in the wrong position you can continue to the next step to modify the straps. Modding The Straps (3) STEP 1: You can modify the straps with length and chin or may just be fixing something a dog chewed, either way fixing the straps is quite easy to do. You can pull apart the rivet and remove straps that way but I usually just cut off the strap entirely. STEP 2: Once cut you need to position the straps in the correct angle and position. It can help by getting the general position you want, putting a hole and rivet/stitch into it and then place the muzzle on the dog, then move the strap angle to the position you want. Pinch/hold that position, take off the dog and put in a hole/stitch to hold it there. ​ ​ Trim around the strap/muzzle to line them up and then complete on the other side. After this you should be all done!.

Incorrect Sizing Methods Using Only Length & Circumference For example, these two muzzles pictured are the same length and circumference. Are they the same shape in the slightest? No! Two completely different dogs would wear these muzzles. One width is 3” the other 5”. One height is 5.5” the other closer to 4.5”. There is absolutely no way to correctly size with only these measurements. ​ To prove this, please tell me which of these muzzles is the widest and which is the tallest: ​ 4" x 12" 3"x 13" 4" x 12.5" ​ I could keep going, but as shown, there is no way to correctly size based on these two measurements on a muzzle, especially when they offer nothing towards the actual shape of the muzzle. Circumference does not show width or closed height, which are more important than length. Another example would be the CHOPO 18F/69C and 17F/66C. Most company size charts have the same length and circumference but are entirely different muzzles. The 18F with much less height and a longer chin causes it not to fit the dog in everything, including length. ​ If they had a height measurement, they would have known one would not have worked for their dog before purchasing. The right pic was a bit big for the dog, so they sized down, but the image is a perfect example of why following their measurements helps nothing, especially when we have 6+ on nearly every muzzle. Who Does It Correctly MTT has gotten all the essential measurements for you, but many other companies measure their muzzles well. Some are more accurate than others, but it's still better than the two measurements you get from some places. ​ IF you see the sizing chart mention height, be sure to check if it's front or back height and the shape of the muzzle. Some muzzles are shorter at the front, and they'll measure the height at the back. The width could also be front or back unless specified. Any other measurements are a bonus, and the more they have, the more accurate the chart will be. ​ TYDM is a custom company but a great example of how two measurements don't just size dogs. Most European companies are good at getting more measurements and reasonably accurate too. Chicundscharf is recommended. Both FDT and DT use more than two measurements, but they are pretty off when measured by MTT properly. We have every size measured anyway, so we shouldn't need their chart. Prestige wire in aus also had their muzzles measured well. ​ You don't need every measurement as we get, but you still need something to show the height or width of the muzzle; otherwise, it is a complete gamble when purchasing. Sizing By Yawn Size Sizing based on your dog yawning is not accurate since this will oversize the fit, you can learn more about this in Measuring Your Dog BACK TO TOP

Brocks Muzzles Manufacturer: Full Grip Supply Name: Brocks Location: USA Ships: Worldwide Options: 2 sizes Sellers: 2+ Scavenge Proof: Yes Bite proof: Yes Extras: They also sell stool guards for the muzzles; it's one size that fits inside on large muzzle and outside on medium muzzle. *note that other stool guards not made by Birdwell won't fit as well/at all. Pros & Cons What is good or bad about these muzzles will depend on the dog, owner and also size. This list below is generalised. PROs: Low cost Available internationally Bite proof unless super determined Has a stool guard Easy to modify/add noseband Hard-plastic Slightly bigger than Birdwell CONs: No noseband Chin strap needs removing for most. Limited sizes​ MTT Info Charts Muzzle Training and Tips are the only ones who have a full and accurate size, measurement and weight chart for these muzzles. Most companies use a wildly inaccurate or incomplete chart, which is unfair to customers who should know exactly what they are purchasing. Measurement Chart Individual Muzzle Charts (missing medium) Dog Muzzle Charts Muzzle Comparison Charts Make & Material Made from heavy-duty plastic that wont bend or warp under hard use and all metal buckle and hardware. Resistant to scraping on fences as well as dirt and odours, machine and dishwasher safe for easy cleaning and disinfecting. ​ You can purchase a 'stool guard' to go with either size of Brocks Muzzle, it sits inside the large muzzle and outside of the medium muzzle. There is a few types of stool guards you can buy that could fit but we recommend just sticking with the Brocks guard. ​ Pic from Full grip supply store on Etsy. Look-A-Likes Brocks muzzles have a few other brands that are really similar, the Birdwell is the closest you can find to Brocks but there is a Similar style from Aus which are soft material and the 114 from The muzzle Shop is also very similar. ​ In the picture in a Birdwell vs Brocks muzzle. Where/How To Purchase BUY FROM HERE Load More Back To Top

Pant Information & FAQ The size of a muzzle matters greatly when something like a dog panting is part of a necessary function to live a healthy life. Used incorrectly muzzles can injure your dog (or worse). Ensuring your dog can properly breathe, cool down and vomit is essential when sizing a muzzle. You can find more information on why a muzzle should fit a dogs pant on Why Size Matters. What Is A Regular Pant? This is your dogs regular or daily pants. Usually the pant they'll have on a casual walk/play or even just slightly stressed. It's harder to judge regular pants if it often changes depending on what you're doing. If this were the case for your dog, we recommend sizing to full pants. Muzzle for regular pants is suitable for grooming, the vets, travelling etc., where a full pant isn't as needed. This is also why some muzzles will look big when panting because the dog is only regular panting in a 'full pant height' muzzle. What Is A Full Pant? This is your dogs fullest pants. Usually, after exercise, playing, high stress, hot days etc. Ensuring your muzzle fits a full pant correctly when needed is essential to keep them safe. Full pant is always recommended if you have a dog with breathing or heat issues. If you're unsure of what you need, the best option would be to go for a full pant size in case, or some people purchase a muzzle for each pant to suit exactly what they need. FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Can I size without a full or regular pant? Yes! Whilst it is recommended to get their full pant measured, you can approximate your dogs pant height by looking at older pictures and adding a certain amount to the closed height measurement. ​ My dog does not pant? Whilst some dogs are an exception, not seeing your dog pant likely means you have not worked them enough (if safe) to full pant. You may need to exercise/play more to ensure it doesn't get bigger. Exceptions would be medical issues, new dogs or truly small pants. - We just want a muzzle for inside? Even an indoors/low activity muzzle still needs to fit a regular pant, at least. Any smaller is too small and not appropriate for use. No panting doesn't mean they shouldn't have the room; if your dog were to escape or need to vomit, the space is essential to keep your dog safe. - Summer vs Winter full pants? Some dogs also have different sized full pants in summer compared to winter. The easiest way to size this is to go with the most important measurement to suit all seasons. Or you could purchase two muzzles. - I definitely can't get a pant pic, what should I do? Some dogs will not pant enough for helpful pictures when sizing. Whilst this is unfortunate, it doe not mean the end with no other options. Instead, make sure you can get additional info we ask for and let us know roughly how big the pant is when you have seen them previously. - What issues can a muzzle too small for pant cause? Breathing issues, overheating, choking, stress, heightened aggression or reactivity, inability to yawn, rubbing, bruising, negative associations and much more. You wouldn't hold their mouth shut and ask them to deal with it happily for hours at a time whilst eating, drinking and playing. It's abuse. - How can I tell if it fits my dogs pant? The obvious answer is if your dog can't pant, it's too small, but sometimes the fit is too close to tell from just trying it on. The best way to check is to use it while keeping an eye on your dog to watch for any restrictions, rubbing, new pawing etc. Read over fitting a muzzle for more info. Back To Top

Approximating Your Dogs Measurements If you can't get all the measurements needed you can approximate your dogs measurements using the one or two you were able to get. This can be used for length/width/height, open circumference and height. Back To Top Profile Pics + Length, Width & Closed Height Starting with the easier measurements to approximate, you start by getting profile pics of your dog, which are closed mouth, taken from above your dogs snout and side on. By getting these pictures and for example only length you can quite easily approximate the missing measurements (width and closed height. ​ The pictures with no measurements are your dogs profile pics. You can see below how you can approximate these measurements. Length can approximate width and closed height, Closed height can approximate length, which can then give you the approximate width, as well as width can approximate length, which can then approximate closed height. As you can see though, it would be more useful to get length, rather than width or closed height. ​ First Photo: Yellow tape measure The dogs width is 2.7", you can instantly see in this photo that the dogs length is longer than their width, you could make a rough guess or you can edit the photo and draw a line up the length of the nose, then drag it around to over the width/tape measure, thus giving an approximate length. Based on this picture I would put length as approximately 3.5-3.75".​ Second Photo: White tape measure The dogs length is 2.75", based on the pic you can see the dogs width is fairly similar to its length but maybe a bit less. To then approximate the closed height from length you look at their profile pic (side on) and do the same thing of their closed height vs the approx length you have got. Third Photo: Green tape measure Using this dogs closed height of 3.5", we can see length is very similar to their closed height measurement but with the curved nose it could be slightly more. I'd approximate this dog as 3.5"-3.75" length. This dogs length is actually confirmed as 3.75". After this you can then approximate the dogs width by looking at the profile picture from above. Approximating Open Height You can approximate open height by measuring closed height and then compare that measurement/picture to the dog full/regular panting and find a rough open height measurement as shown in the picture. You can also see that full pant looks like it is more than the 5" shown on the closed height so you would also have to add some more to the measurement too. You can also add to approximate open height: Small Dogs: 1"-2" height added Medium dogs: 1.5"-3" height added Large dogs: 2"-4" height added Remember this a guide; their full pant size will also change how much is added. Approximating Open Circumference You can think of open circumference as 2x height. For example if my dogs open height is approx. 4" bigger than closed height then open circumference would be approximately 8" more than closed circumference. ​ ​You can also add up closed height vs open height to approximate open circumference: Small Dogs: 2"-4" circumference added Medium dogs: 3"-6" circumference added Large dogs: 4"-8" circumference added ​ ​Doing it like above is approximate and not recommended if you can help it as how big your dogs pant is will decide how much to add too. For example if you have a medium dog with a large pant you may need to add 6", where as a medium with a small pant may only need 3".

Why Size Matters.. With Muzzles The size of a muzzle matters greatly when something like a dog panting is part of a necessary function to live a healthy life. Used incorrectly muzzles can injure your dog (or worse). Ensuring your dog can properly breathe, cool down and vomit is essential when sizing a muzzle. Why Do Most Muzzles On Here Look Big? Most of the muzzles posted on this website are correctly fit for the dog wearing it, unless stated otherwise. A muzzle may look big on some dogs and this is due to their larger pants. If the dog was to fully pant and there was room left underneath the chin, then the muzzle could be too big. In general a muzzle too big on height is still going to work better than one too small, as long as the length and width fit too. This information is explained more on the pages Why Pant Room Is So Important Firstly you must know what a panting dog means. There are many reasons why a dog may be panting, and many more reasons why you shouldn't restrict these things with a small muzzle. Dogs breathe through both their nose and mouth, a pant is just an open mouth with moderate to rapid breathing, and usually the tongue sticking out. Panting lowers body temperate and gets oxygen into the dogs' bloodstream. Some don't know that dogs' do not sweat like humans, instead they cool their self by evaporating the moisture in the mouth/tongue and replace the hot air in the lungs with cold air. Dogs do however sweat a bit from their paws but it is not effective enough to keep them cooled down. ​ Dogs don't just pant when over-heating either, they can pant with walking, being out in the heat, under stress, when excited or playing to name of few. Though overheating can be the biggest issue in dogs muzzled or not, especially when the temperatures are high. You will notice most dogs that are anxious will pant a fair amount. ​ The more dogs pant, the more they evaporate moisture from the tongue/mouth and the faster they replace the hot air in their lungs, the faster they cool down and the less likely they over heat or worse. Video on panting HERE. ​ But what is heat stroke/overheating and why is it so dangerous? "Heat stroke is a term commonly used for hyperthermia or elevated body temperature. Generally speaking, if a pet's body temperature exceeds 103°F/39.4°C, it is considered abnormal or hyper-thermic. The most common cause of heat stroke or hyperthermia is leaving a dog in a car with inadequate ventilation. Other common causes of heat stroke include being left in a yard without access to shade or water on a hot day, being exposed to a hair dryer for an extended period of time, and excessive or vigorous exercise during hot temperatures. Excited or excessively exercised dogs are sometimes at risk even if the environmental temperature and humidity does not seem high. This is particularly true if dogs are kept in a poorly ventilated environment or a dog house." - By Krista Williams, BSc, DVM, CCRP; Ernest Ward, DVM ​ If they are not given enough shade or water, left in the car or exercised in extreme heat, is not only highly discouraged by any pet professional, it is considered animal cruelty in most countries... So why are tiny and restrictive muzzles allowed and recommended by so many, used incorrectly they can kill your dog especially when paired with any of the other issues above. ​ Don't forget about the ability to vomit and not choke on it If your dog vomits and is unable to swallow properly, he could choke on his vomit and aspirate into his lungs causing a severe and potentially fatal pneumonia. Again a huge risk when using a small muzzle on your dog. ​ View the muzzles below and imagine how any animal would feel comfortable and safe with one on. Can't pant/breath, yawn, vomit, or drink properly and unfortunately this is what gets promoted. The only reason most companies have photos of well fit muzzles is from their users fitting them correctly and posting the photo, not because they're using them to advertise a proper fit. ​ "Well I wouldn't have it that tight"... Then it would not stop a bite, which is why they are not appropriate or safe. Closed Height/Mouth This is your dog with its mouth shut, a muzzle cannot physically be the same as this or smaller. It would be incredibly unsafe and your risk your dog not being able to breathe normally, choking on vomit, rubbing sores, stress and more. Regular Pant This is your dogs regular or daily pants. Usually the pant they'll have on a casual walk, the vets/groomers or a quick play. It is not their biggest pant but is somewhere in between full pant and closed mouth/height. Full Pant This is your dogs fullest pant, usually after exercise, playing tug, sports , high stress, hot days etc. Ensuring your muzzle fits a full pant correctly when needed is essential to keep them safe and happy. If your dogs full pant is heavily restricted you will cause issues. Size Matters... As you can see for many reasons that aren't something to mess around with. Having a muzzle that restricts pant is risking your dogs life, especially if the already have other issues like obesity, short noses, breathing issues and more. A well fit muzzle should absolutely allow your dog to full pant without being over big and bulky. ​ 5 Photo Cred: Kathryn Chalmers

Making a Biothane Muzzle (5 Parts) Learn how to make a biothane muzzle, how you can reinforce one or just check out other examples of DIY Biothane muzzles. Reinforcing Biothane (1) We have had a member that has reinforced their biothane muzzle to help with strength. While we wouldn't recommend trusting it on significant dogs/ determined bite risks, it is always an option for extra precaution. “The metal bars are actually bendable bracelets I got off Amazon; they take some effort and thumbs to bend. And I used a consumption safe once cured silicone adhesive. I plan to add some on the sides as well for extra security.” This biothane muzzle was made by TDYM; it came custom with the treat hole. Pics and info by Tatyonna Jordan Some examples of DIY biothane, you can use cardboard to demo and test the size you are making then make based on that. Making A Biothane Muzzle (2) Materials needed: biothane, 9mm (or 3/8"), 13mm (or 1/2") (these are the ones I've found to work best but may vary depending on your dog's size) Chicago screws (3/16", the number will depend on how many straps you want/need but expect to need a fair amount) leather or hollow punch (hollow punch is more straightforward, and you'll need to use less force, usually makes cleaner holes) lighter (to clean up and seal the biothane edges whenever you cut or make a hole) sharp scissors tape measure buckle padding (neoprene, air mesh, felt etc.) - don't necessarily need to pad the biothane but might as well STEP 1 You can skip this part, but you should make a paper or cardboard model first if you're unsure. It'll give you more room for error, and once you figure out the exact length and strap placements, you can get straight to it with the biothane. Credit- Aylin Da There are several different designs, but the one I used for this has a single strap that goes both around the back of the neck and over the nose, which creates an X under the jaw/near the neck. This adds extra stability and security. I used a 13mm (or 1/2") biothane for this. STEP 2 The next strap you'll attach will go from one side of the head, around the front of your dog's nose, to the other side. It should not be touching the dog's nose but should not be too far away. The exact distance is up to you. You can cut the strap to the same length you need and only make one hole on each side or make it adjustable by leaving the strap longer and making several holes. I used a 13mm (or 1/2") biothane for this. STEP 3 The following straps will be attached on each side of the X under the jaw and go to the front under the nose (see step 5 if you don't want/need a nose free design). Make sure they're long enough to accommodate a full pant. I left them a bit longer than necessary at first, but this can easily be fixed later. You can always take off some more length later, but you can't just put it back on. I used a 9mm (or 3/8") biothane for this. STEP 4 Attach the vertical straps that go over the dog's nose. You can do it with one long strap that goes around in its entirety like a spiral, or you can use several shorter straps that go around once each. I used a 9mm (or 3/8") biothane for this. STEP 5 Attach the top straps. I made mine "nose free", as shown in the example where the straps don't go entirely straight, or you can attach them straight but cut them short enough so they go from the strap in front of the eyes to the strap closest to the nose (on top). If you don't want/need nose free, you can just have the straps from step 3 go all the way to the top. I used 9mm (or 3/8") biothane for this. STEP 6 Attach the horizontal straps that go around the front of the dog's nose I used 9mm (or 3/8") biothane for this. How many straps you need in steps 4 and 6 depends on your dog's measurements and how closed off you want the muzzle to be. STEP 7 - OPTIONAL Add padding - either all straps that are lying on the dog's nose or just the one in front of the eyes. Add head strap - using one piece of biothane screwed from between the eyes to the strap behind ears. Looped around neck strap or screwed onto it. More Biothane Muzzle Examples (3) FIRST MUZZLE (First 4 pics) We have had a member that has cleverly made a mock-up muzzle using cardboard/paper and tape. This is an excellent idea in ensuring that the muzzle you make will fit well without constantly checking on your dog's face. ​ Made very similar to the method above. Credit to Karli Mae Leap ​ SECOND MUZZLE (next 2 pics) This member has worked on a biothane muzzle for a French Bulldog. You can see how this muzzle is different to normal ones made for this breed as it allows for a pant and is not tight over their snout/mouth. ​ Credit to Tracey Mammen ​ THIRD MUZZLE (Last 4 pics) We have had a member that made a colourful biothane muzzle that looks great on their dog. They used adjustable nylon for the strap to secure it. ​ Made very similar to the methods above. ​ Credit to Sandra Selak

Securing A Muzzle Securing a muzzle is highly recommended by MTT. Most muzzles come with one strap, which isn’t enough for pretty much all dogs, and the muzzle will easily slip over the ears. We recommend securing to a ‘snug collar’ or making your chin straps secure the muzzle and its straps. Before securing your muzzle make sure you have had its fit checked (or checked yourself) as securing won't help a big or small muzzle if the issue is falling or pulling off. anchor1 Securing Videos Using A Snug Collar Using A Chin Strap Using A Head Strap Not Recommended Goggles Securing a muzzle is highly recommended by MTT. Most muzzles come with one strap which isn’t enough for pretty much all dogs and the muzzle will easily slip over the ears. Securing is also useful in making sure you don't lose your muzzle, we have many members who have off leash or swimming muzzled dogs and losing your muzzle is not fun. You can click through the tabs above to read over the information. The X will bring you back to this first page. Scroll down further for steps to follow and some FAQ. Frequently Asked Securing Questions Does your dog pull off their muzzle? If you are here because your dog is pulling off their muzzle then you first need to work out if there are any other causes to this problem, the most common reason is the dog is in a small/ill fit muzzle or it is not muzzle trained properly. If your muzzle fits and your dog is fully muzzle trained then we would recommend securing the muzzle and working on redirection. Securing to fix the other issues mentioned is not fixing the problem and will only cause more stress. Will securing help a muzzle that is too big? If your muzzle is too big its likely securing won't help, in this case we suggest getting the correct fit, rather then trying to make it stay on by over tightening everything. My muzzle moves around? When fit correctly a muzzle will move around on the nose, securing will help this but it shouldn’t restrict movement fully. A correctly fit muzzle will sit big on the dogs face when closed mouth since the size is for the important pant, so dogs' playing/running without panting are much more likely to have the muzzle move around. My muzzle has more than one strap, does it need securing? It completely depends on the muzzle you have and how it fits your dog. If you think it could slip off, then secure it. If you're sure it's not going anywhere then don't secure. Muzzle pulls into eyes when tightening/securing? If your muzzle goes into the eyes when tightening the strap this is likely a length problem, check fit with MTT then have a look over modifying first. If the length does work then you may need to loosen one strap and tighten the other, as well as using for a bit and retrying different holes until you find the right fit. Can I make a securing strap? Absolutely! Many members choose to make their own straps, you can find all this information under the Securing tab on the Modifying Muzzles page. Back To Top

Securing Mods (3 Parts) More information on Securing a Muzzle. Adding A Chin Strap (1) Making a chin strap is super easy if you have all the materials All you need is 1-2ft of Biothane or leather strapping (width under 3/4” preferred). Some members have also used cut-up nylon collars or strapping. Measure the length you need by having your dog wear the muzzle and measuring under the chin; you need to remember that the chin strap could restrict some dogs pants. It’s a good idea to keep one side longer in case you need to add length. Adding the holes for the rivets on each side, then screwing it on. Check fit while panting and rerivet if needed. ​ How these fit depends on your dog. Not every fit will be the same or work on every dog. This is something you’ll need to work out on your own when making it. Adding A Head Strap (2) You can add a head strap to your muzzle with some work to keep it secure, but you will still need a secure collar or chin strap to keep straps secure. JAFCO: Start by adding a hole to the top of your muzzle (where you want the strap to sit), then rivet in the strap and go over the head and make a loop around the neck strap and rivet again. We would recommend looping around the strap and screwing back to the head strap because the neck-straps are thinner material. Using Chicago screws is preferred to remove/add easily when needed. Plus, they are safer. ​ WIRE: Wire muzzles are easier to add a head strap too. However, it’s usually not needed unless you have a short-nosed dog. Start by screwing one side to the wire on the muzzle in-between the eyes, go up over the head and either loop around the strap and screw/rivet or attach straight to the muzzle strap itself. ​ BASKERVILLE/OTHER: Pretty much the same as above, though these muzzles once again usually don’t need securing by a head strap. Making A Snug Collar (3) I made a few different types of snug collars to show you your options. Whether you use biothane or bungee cord, they are made relatively similar to each other. If you have a different way you have done this, please let us know how and send in some pictures. ​ In the first picture I made a snug collar with D rings in line with the muzzles cheeks, then added carabiners to clip between the D ring and muzzle. This collar is not adjustable and would be made to your dog's measurements. You could adjust by adding leftover length with extra holes on one side of the buckle with a Chicago screw. ​ The second picture I made with a bungee cord is straightforward and a good option for those needing extra room on the dog's neck. Made to the dog's measurements, not too tight or loose, an O/D ring on one end and a clip on the other. This should feed through the cheeks on your muzzle to hold it in place. ​ The third picture is a fully adjustable biothane collar, made similar to above but has the 'tri glide' so you can add length or tighten it.