Open Measurements MTT has a particular way to measure your dog, which we believe is the best way to get a good fit; At the same time, some places may suggest differently, so when we refer to measuring your dog, the methods listed below are the only ones MTT use as it has been changed and improved by experience over the last 6 years. This page will cover measuring full pant/open height and open circumference. Disclaimer: Firstly if your dog is a bite risk to you or doesn't allow hands/things near their face we DO NOT RECOMMEND MEASURING them. Putting your dogs through unnecessary stress when it is possible to use other methods (listed below). On another note please DO NOT use your hands to open your dog's mouth. You should not measure if you have to force any more than a comfortable level. How To Get Your Dogs Open Measurements (3 Parts) 1: Open Height This is equal to your dog's full or regular pant measurement, it's called 'open height' as there are different methods to measure it which are measuring full/regular pant, measuring with a ball accurate to full/regular pant or approximating the dogs full/regular pant height. ​ The open height measurement is taken at the tallest part of the pant (usually the front) straight up and down. Exercise your dog to full or regular pant (depending on what you need) and then measure them. Using a hard/straight measuring tape is best. To get this measurement, you can get your dog exercising and then take the measurement. Taking a few extra days to get this can increase your chance of sizing the first time correctly greatly. You do not have to get this measurement to size, and it's possible to approximate pant height by comparing full pant pic to their closed mouth measurement. ​ If you cannot measure your dogs full/regular pant, read over using a ball further down this page. ​ Please do NOT pull your dogs mouth open for this measurement, its so unfortunate that I have to clarify this but in no way is it safe or necessary, skip the measurement if you can't get it, don't force your dog into a position that's probably not even the same as their pant size. 2. Open Circumference An open circumference is the measurement of your dogs snout around the tallest part whilst they are fully panting (or regular panting depending on what you size muzzle you need) with a soft tape measure or string. ​ Exercise your dog to full pant and then measure as best you can, though this measurement is really difficult to get and pretty unnecessary if you already have the open height measurement, which is much easier. 3. Using A Ball A ball or toy is used to replicate your dogs pant size so you can measure and get the open height & circumference. You cannot only put any ball in their mouth to measure and expect that to be your dogs open height. This is why we mention that taking photos of your dogs pant is helpful, as you can have them hold the ball to compare. This way you will know if the ball is over/under exaggerated or accurate to their full/regular pant. If it is over exaggerated then you know to take a slight amount off their measurements, and if under exaggerated you can add more to the measurement. The approximating tab goes over this more as well. ​ Set 1: This ball picture shows that it is accurate to a full pant. Set 2: This ball picture shows that it overexaggerates the dogs full pant, if the person measured with the ball and I didn't see the full pant or you based their open height off it, it would be likely they would end up with a muzzle that is too big. Either use a smaller ball or approximate by taking off some height. Set 1: Set 2: Back To Top

Fitting Issues Muzzle fit issues and out of the box information. ​ Make sure you get to the 'back to top' button to ensure you don't miss anything important. Muzzle Fit Issues Unfortunately some popular and unpopular muzzles have sizes or slight issues that cause fit issues with some dogs. These things range from the chin being long to there being a bump over the nose or sizes that all have small front heights. This is a newer section so will add information as I go. ​ CHOPO A common fit issue people have with the CHOPO is the long chin lengths, when they are longer than the length and the length is already needing modifying the still long chin will hit the neck. Depending on the fit and dog this can work but with the options out there now, it should be possible to find better. ​ JAFCO Another brand that sells muzzles with a super long chin length, especially on the R sizes. Most people who use these have to modify the chin length a fair amount to fit well. A second issue is sizes like 2, 3 and 3X all have low placed traps which cause cause the muzzle to not fit well and need to have the straps modified. ​ BASKERVILLE An issue with both the ultra and classic is the front height is shorter than the back height. If you look at most dogs their pant is bigger at the front then the back. ​ JVM These are not used are often yet but so far there has been minimal issues. A few members have mentioned they are snugger on the cheeks than CHOPO and the straps are wider, they can a bit still but with use they're fine. ​ ​ Got info? Let us know. Out Of The Box Most muzzles when being sent aren't all going to be the same. Muzzles that are easily squished like leather straps or vinyl like jafco can come narrower/wider than usual due to how it was shipped or stored. One of the most common muzzles to come different are CHOPO; they are hand made and will always have slight differences in how far the cheeks are widened/narrowed etc. At the same time, it is usually common to get narrower wire muzzles due to being squished together for storage/shipping to the supplier, etc. Other times you may receive a slightly upgraded (or downgraded if you get the old version expecting the new) as the manufacturer is constantly upgrading the sizes to better suit. Did you get the right muzzle? Unfortunately, many muzzle (mainly wire) companies and suppliers have a massive issue with receiving the wrong size muzzle. Because there are so many options and most are pretty similar to the others, it's easy to obtain the wrong size, and if you're not educated on what the size looks like or its exact measurements, you may not even tell and brush it off as your fault for sizing wrong. This mostly happens at places with few or incorrect measurements. Leerburg is a good example as they only use two measurements, so they are constantly sending the wrong muzzle since many share the same length and circumference. The main sizes this happens with are 16F/65C and 17F/66C; they are commonly replaced with 18F/19F due to the same lengths/circumferences. In reality, these muzzles are completely different sizes, and the 18/19 rarely fit the dogs that the first two would have. This is why it's so important to know all the measurements of the muzzle before purchasing if you want guaranteed accuracy. In the pictures (Credit to Tally V Canario) it shows the difference between the 18F and 16F. Because they have similar lengths and the same circumference around the base of the snout FDT claimed they were the same muzzle. Ignoring the fact, the 18F has far less height than the 16F and a much longer chin making it impossible to modify and fix length.

Replacing Muzzle Straps (3 Parts) This page is for replacing the straps on your muzzle. This means removing the ones they come with and adding your own. If you are looking for how to modify the strap you have, you can find this information in the Strap Mods tab. Replacing Wire Straps (1) Need: Biothane 5/8” Quick-release buckle 5/8” Chicago screws (much safer than regular rivets) Leather hole punch Scissors Measuring tape ​ How to: First, make sure you have a well-fit muzzle. Use the old strap to measure how long you need Cut the piece longer than needed, so you have room to adjust. Remember to add approximately 2” extra for where you fold and rivet. Trim all the corners off the Biothane and burn the ends to keep it sealed. Once everything is cut, you can line up where you need the holes for the rivets. Double-check everything, then hole punch-out where you need. Add the straps and rivets to the muzzle. My strap has extra holes on one side of the quick release. This makes it still adjustable without the need for a buckle. Replacing JAFCO Straps (2) You can replace straps on JAFCO too; it’s pretty easy to do as long as you have the suitable materials. This is helpful for specific Jafco sizes where the straps are at the wrong angle for the dog. First Pics (black JAFCO) was done by removing the rivets and replacing them with a biothane strap. The following pics (clear JAFCO) are my pictures and steps, which I will go over below. You can click each pic for the steps. Materials I used: 1/2" and 5/8" biothane (depends on what you prefer) 6mm and 8mm post Chicago screws (thickness of your JAFCO + doubled biothane) 5/8" quick release buckle Hole punch Snips ​ Done this mod? Send us your pics :) One of our awesome members gave us great pics of them modifying their JAFCO muzzle. The steps on how to are on the pictures (click them). Replacing Other Straps (3) Chinstrap: Most greyhound muzzles will need the chin strap removed for dogs that aren’t sighthounds. They are placed far back and tight (made for a sighthound's long/slim head). ​ Using scissors, you can remove just the strap to the muzzle or the whole chin strap. Make sure you don’t cut the wrong straps. ​ Replacing the straps: Some people have replaced the straps on their greyhound muzzles. This is pretty much the same as the other strap mods above on other brands of the muzzle.

Closed Measurements MTT has a particular way to measure your dog, which we believe is the best way to get a good fit; At the same time, some places may suggest differently, so when we refer to measuring your dog, the methods listed below are the only ones MTT use as it has been changed and improved by experience over the last 6 years. This page will cover measuring length, width, closed height and closed circumference. Disclaimer: Firstly if your dog is a bite risk to you or doesn't allow hands/things near their face we DO NOT RECOMMEND MEASURING them. Putting your dogs through unnecessary stress when it is possible to use other methods (listed below). On another note please DO NOT use your hands to open your dog's mouth. You should not measure if you have to force any more than a comfortable level. How To Get Your Dogs Closed Measurements (4 Parts) 1: Length Length measurement is the exact length of your dog's nose, taken down from the eyes to the tip of the nose. ​ We recommend measuring 0.5” down from the eyes, depending on the dog and where you want the muzzle to sit this may slightly differ. You can see in the photo there is a .5" gap between the eyes and the measuring tape. ​ ​ Length is measured exact because the 'adding length'​ to ensure it doesn't sit on the tip of the nose is done when sizing the muzzle. You need exact measurements to compare to the measurements of the muzzle. If your dogs exact length is 3.25" you need to find a muzzle that is roughly 3.75" to add the room to keep off the nose. 2: Width The width is the exact same as length but the other way over the nose. It is the imaginary straight line from one side to the other. It is not measured over the nose with a curved tape measure. It would be easier As an example, the widest width we have gotten is only 5.5" as an exact measurement which was a very large dog and the smallest is 1".​ ​ Width is more relaxed than the other measurements as most muzzles can be modified and most dogs do okay with a slightly wide muzzle, however a muzzle that is too narrow will likely not work for any dog since it will restrict pant as well as being very uncomfortable. 3: Closed Height This is a straight-forward measurement and exact. It does not include jowls, yawning, mouth partially open, etc. Closed height is taken up the side of the snout from the top to the bottom at the tallest part. The tape measure should not be curled at all.​ ​​ ​​ Ensuring this measurement is correct is really important when sizing a muzzle because an incorrect closed height can instantly give you the wrong fit if approximating the open measurements when sizing and measuring. If you can get a panting measurement then this measurement is not needed but if you can't get a panting measurement this part is very important to get right when guessing how much extra height their pant is. 4: Closed Circumference This is measured around the base of the mouth at the widest/tallest part with a soft measuring tape or a string. Straightforward measurement to get. Taken snug, not tight or loose. If they have jowls, just do it snug and read over the jowly dog tabs.​​ ​ Make sure you measure at the widest/tallest part of the snout. You will need to use a soft tape measure or a string then measure the string with your straight tape measure. ​ ​ This measurement is not really helpful when paired with the other measurements, though it is a good one to get IF you cannot get the others like width and closed height. Back To Top

Decorating Muzzles (5 Parts) This tab covers all things decorating. From painting wire or JAFCO muzzles or vet wrapping and duct taping. Whatever method you use, it is sure to be colourful and fun. Vet Wrapping The Muzzle (1) Some members wrap their muzzles in vet wrap to decorate them. This can be used just for looks or to bring more attention to the muzzle to keep people at a distance. Vet wrap sticks to itself and will need redoing depending on much you use the muzzle. It also gets dirty pretty fast. ​ A member wrapped theirs in vet wrap and even made a how-to video; see HERE Adding Duct Tape (2) We have had members use duct tape to decorate their muzzles. You can usually find this at most craft stores or online (Amazon/ebay etc). It’s harder work with all the small pieces to wrap and would likely need redoing every so often. ​ Fully wrapping your muzzle in duct tape can make it slightly heavier for your dog but it usually is not a noticeable difference. ​ You can also see the rainbow muzzle also has a scavenging guard made from duct. Adding Semi Permanent Vinyl (3) Another member has used permanent vinyl to wrap their muzzles. It will stay on better than removable vinyl. Cut the size pieces you need and wrap the wire individually. It will be harder to do on curved edges. This is just for looks; it will likely eventually come off or be torn if used often. The material does well with being slightly heated up when wrapped around the muzzle to stick better. Painting A JAFCO (4) Coming soon Painting A Wire Muzzle (5) Lots of people have painted their muzzles. JAFCO and wire are the most common. Make sure you’re using pet safe paint. ​ How to paint wire is below. For JAFCO, you can follow the exact instructions (without sanding). Clear may be harder to paint, but the black/white should work fine. You do not need to go out and get every item, but they will help you get a much better finish. The total cost was $60 for two muzzles using fast dying/safe paint. ITEMS NEEDED: (For M10) Plastic primer Enamel spray paint (that sticks to plastics) Clearcoat Fine sanding paper Rubbing alcohol Detergent Rags/paper towel Painters/electrical tape (masking tape etc.) Something to cover the leather parts ITEMS NEEDED: (For M9) All of the above, but make sure the primer, paint and clear coat are for metal, not plastic/rubber. ​ STEP 1: SANDING (OPTIONAL) Lightly sand over parts that will be painted. You don't want to use coarse sandpaper as it will create deep grooves. This is optional, but a slight roughness will help the paint stick better. ​ STEP 2: WRAPPING Wrap the leather on the muzzle using whatever tape/cover you have, making sure to have the least amount of tape touching the parts that will be painted while also covering the leather fully. Another option is to buy new Chicago screws for the noseband and straps (6 total), then take off the leather parts on the muzzle and paint. This way will keep things much neater but does take some time. ​ STEP 3: CLEANING (SOAP) Use some soap, water and a cloth. Clean the muzzle to ensure it's completely free of dirt/saliva/hair etc. Then rinse with water and dry off. STEP 4: CLEANING (RUBBING ALCOHOL) Once dried above, lightly wipe down with rubbing alcohol to get any oils off that the soap left. This will significantly help your paint to stick. ​ STEP 5: PRIMER (SKIP IF NOT USING) Once the muzzle is fully clean and correctly prepared, you can apply the first coat of primer. Be sure to follow the instructions on your paint. Try painting at optimal temperatures for best results and wait the recommended time for respraying. I did the first mist coat, followed by two full primer coats, and then left to partially dry. ​ STEP 6: PAINTING Once the muzzle is primed and dry to the touch, you can start adding your coats of colour, be sure to follow the instructions on your paint. 3-5+ coats of colour are recommended, though you can tell once painting how much you'll need In the first coat, I did a very light mist. You could still see lots of blacks. I waited the recommended 20 minutes dry time, then resprayed. The subsequent few coats gradually got heavier until the 3rd coat entirely covered the muzzle. I ended up doing another four extra coats to make sure it was fully covered (7 coats colour total). ​ STEP 7: CLEAR/PROTECTIVE COAT Once you have finished painting and waited the correct amount of time for partial drying, you can now cover in a clear coat; once again, Be sure to follow instructions on the paint you have. It's recommended to do at least three clear coats for good protection. The first coat I sprayed was a light mist, then waited and resprayed two more times with full wet coats (not enough to cause dripping, though). Then left to dry overnight fully. ​ STEP 8: TOUCH-UPS Once the muzzle is fully painted and dry, you can unwrap the covering on the noseband and straps. It's likely once removed; you will see some unpainted parts. You can get a small paintbrush, spray the paint you're using onto paper, etc. and hand paint the small details you've missed. Let dry and repaint if needed. Then you can also use the same method to cover them in a clear coat. ​ STEP 9: DRYING Make sure the muzzle is completely dry and smell free before putting on your dog; this may take up to 48 hours from spraying. I also recommend giving a quick wipe over with a wet cloth COMPLETED! ​ REMEMBER: Not every paint is going to stick great It's not always going to turn out perfect There are other ways to do it It will chip off eventually, especially if your dog is rough ​

Vinyl/Plastic Noseband Mods (3 Parts) This page is for modding the length of JAFCO and Greyhound style muzzles, as well as modifying the chin length on JAFCO muzzles. Again this is more for function of the muzzle, rather than for looks/decorating. Cutting JAFCO Length (1) Cutting/modifying a vinyl/hard plastic is expected because of the minimal sizes and weird shapes some people need to trim down. Make sure to check fit with MTT before doing anything. Sometimes muzzles don’t need cutting at all but shaping and fixing straps etc. ​ Materials? Depending on what you are modifying, you will likely use sharp scissors, a box knife, or a Dremel/sandpaper. You may also need chicago screws/rivets. ​ How to do it? Using a marker, measure and draw where you need to cut/Dremel. You can go past the first set of rivets on the top. Never the second rivets, and don’t get too close to them. Make sure you go bit by bit and recheck on your dog, do not go too far. You can always take more off, but you cannot add it back. Once down to the desired length, you can add holes and replace the rivets if you cut past them. This doesn’t necessarily need to be done as they only hold the noseband, but it’s an option. ​ Once you’ve cut down the length, you may find the chin-length is too long and will need trimming down also (next section). Cutting JAFCO Chins Length (2) Modding the chin is more common than length; unfortunately, most vinyl muzzles have a long chin length (especially the R sizes) due to the way muzzles are made. Muzzle is being pushed up by the chin? Usually, if your muzzles are pushing up over the eyes (when looking down etc.), it means the chin length is too long. Make sure to always check the fit with admins before modifying. ​ How to do it? Using a marker, measure and draw where you need to cut/Dremel. You can go past the first set of rivets. Depending on which size, you may have to add more once you’ve cut past, but most will have two more sets left. Make sure you go bit by bit and rechecking on your dog, do not go too far. You can always take more off, but you cannot add it back. Once down to the desired length, it should sit much nicer on your dog's nose if it was pushing it up. Once finished, you can heat the edge to smooth it down. ​ The pictures below have information on them too. Cutting The Whole JAFCO (3) Modding the chin is more common than length; unfortunately, most vinyl muzzles have a long chin length (especially the R sizes) due to the way muzzles are made. Muzzle is being pushed up by the chin? Usually, if your muzzles are pushing up over the eyes (when looking down etc.), it means the chin length is too long. Make sure to always check the fit with admins before modifying. ​ How to do it? Using a marker, measure and draw where you need to cut/Dremel. You can go past the first set of rivets. Depending on which size, you may have to add more once you’ve cut past, but most will have two more sets left. Make sure you go bit by bit and rechecking on your dog, do not go too far. You can always take more off, but you cannot add it back. Once down to the desired length, it should sit much nicer on your dog's nose if it was pushing it up. Once finished, you can heat the edge to smooth it down. ​ The pictures below have information on them too. Modding Greyhound Length/Chin (4) Length: Some greyhound muzzles can be easily cut/ modified because of their softer/ weaker material. This can be helpful for dogs with shorter noses. Some greyhound muzzles are already flimsy before cutting, so this could ruin the shape/strength more, so be aware when doing this. Make sure you always check the fit with MTT before modifying; the muzzle may not be the right fit/size, and cutting won’t help. There are a few different greyhound muzzles and how you modify them depends on what you have. Some can be cut with just scissors, whereas others need a Dremel etc. The first picture shows a light basket with a length cut and a chin strap. Simple to do; you can lightly heat up where cut to smooth it over. The muzzle has been dremelled down on the length in the second pic. This is a bit harder to do as it’s hard plastic. Just measure and grind/Dremel down to the length needed and don’t go too far or Dremel the wrong part. The third pic is modifying length on a soft greyhound muzzle—Mark where to cut carefully and use sharp scissors/box knife to cut. You can heat edges and smooth them off. The fourth pic shows the chin modified down in length. Modifying the chin will be more challenging as there's not much take off, so proceed with caution when cutting as it could make the bottom too short. ​ Chinstrap: Some people will also need to remove the chin strap because of the long style of the muzzle. The chin strap ends up holding the muzzle forward. You can cut these off then secure them properly (see strap mods). This will also help with length on most dogs.

Making a Vinyl Muzzle (4 Parts) This tab is for learning how to make a vinyl muzzle for your dog. It is becoming much more common to make these muzzles since the material is somewhat easy to find and modify. The clear is also super popular for muzzle use. Vinyl Example (1) A member has made many vinyl muzzles for their dogs (or ones they help). They first made a template from linoleum (first pic), then worked with materials to get the fit right for the dog (for a smaller dog). All pics are from the same member, and you can see the different ways they have tried and tested. ​ Credit to Tracey Mammem Vinyl Example (2) Another member made a vinyl muzzle for their dog using thinner material. The dog has a large pants but smaller closed mouth measurements which meant they struggled to find a premade muzzle that fits well. Making a vinyl has helped them get the excellent fit they need and keep their dog happy. ​ We would not recommend using thinner vinyl for more determined bite risks. ​ Credit to Karli Mae Leap Vinyl Example (3) Another clever member made one with a felt nose pad. ​ Made very similar to the method above. ​ Credit to Sara Fisher Partch Vinyl Example (4) Another awesome member who made one for their dog with jaw issues. We liked the different nose hole to the ones above. ​ Made very similar to the method above. ​ Credit to Julia Jasicek

Wire Noseband Mods (3 Parts) This section is for modifying the nosebands that come with most wire muzzles. It is done mainly for function, rather than looks, but if you are looking to change the noseband you can find this information in the Noseband Modifications tab. Trimming The Noseband To Shorten Length (1) The first method is definitely used the most since it is super easy to do and usually helps a lot. You will need a sharp box cutter or even sharper scissors. You have the option of removing the outside rivet closest to the eye. ​ Can I cut over the stitching? Yeah! It only holds the felt on and if you only cut one side it is fine, you can glue the felt up to the leather once cut. ​ Materials? Scissors or box cutter, pen to draw a line, measuring tape, glue (optional), fit checked muzzle. ​ How to do it? Usually, you can judge by eye how much to trim off, but we suggest measuring You want the muzzle to sit just off the nose and away from the eyes. You also don’t want it too short. Measure and draw a straight line where you need to cut. Next, start cutting (box cutters preferred). You can do bit by bit (keep checking it on dog) until you get to your line, but this does make it harder to keep it neat. One single line where you measured should help keep it much neater. But this is up to you. You can decide whether or not to remove the rivet closest to the eye. This will keep the noseband stable, and most dogs do fine with keeping it on, but some will need it removed. If that’s the case, you may need to tie/tape the noseband to the wire; otherwise, it will move around. Once happy with the fit, you can lightly burn the edges to ‘seal’ it all. You can also glue the felt up to the leather if you wish, though no one has had the problem of the felt coming off after cutting the stitching. Note: If you cut down to the wire, you may need to wrap it in some padding like vet wrap etc. (see noseband mods) You can also remove the outsize rivets if they are too close to the eyes but you will need to wrap the noseband to keep it stable under the muzzle and on the nose. ​ This is pretty much it. Once you have cut it down, it should fit much better. If you haven’t cut all the way or only the felt, you can try on the dog and reassess fit; if more length needs to go, repeat the steps above. ​ Info on pictures too Flipping The Noseband To Shorten Length (2) The second option for modifying length is flipping the noseband, this only works with the shorter nosebands. This option is quite simple, but you will need to purchase the rivets to replace and wait for them, which is why most people opt to cut the noseband. ​ Why flip it? Members slip it because it is already narrow they don't want to lose anymore noseband width by trimming so instead they flip it. ​ Can I flip a large noseband? While you are able to flip one it will not work and only make the noseband stick out more due to the shape. Trimming or moving down is a better choice for these types of noseband. ​ Materials? Screw driver or tin snips (to remove rivets), chicago screws or rivets. ​ How to do it? Remove all four rivets. Flip the noseband around and move down so the straight side is flush against the wire and the curved side faces the nose. Replace rivets/Chicago screws You may need to wrap the wire in padding/vet wrap to protect their eyes if it sits close; see noseband mods. Removing the Rivets? Removal - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCsn4Ie3zg0 Installation - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0VJgjHJN1c ​ We recommend using chicago screws in you can as they are easy to put back in and much more likely to stay together. Moving The Noseband Down To Shorten Length (3) Moving the noseband down is another option for some people. If you have a wider noseband, moving it down will likely put it over your dog's nose, which we don’t recommend. It will work for narrower nosebands or dogs with longer snouts. ​ Should I do this method? Sometimes moving down the noseband will make it too short for your dog. Checking fit with admins first will save you the trouble if it makes it too short. ​ The noseband will touch my dogs nose? If this is the case you'll need to look at cutting the noseband instead. Most dogs' have no issues with the noseband touching their nose but some will. ​ Will the chin be an issue? If the chin of the muzzle is already touching your dogs neck before modifying the muzzles length you may have issues after modifying of not being able to move the muzzle back further towards the eyes and it'll sit at the end of the nose. Again why we recommend a fit check . ​ Materials? Screw driver or tin snips (to remove the rivets), chicago screws or rivets. ​ How to do it? Remove all four rivets. Move down the noseband, so it's flush against the wire closest to the eyes. Replace rivets/Chicago screws You may need to wrap the wire in padding/vet wrap to protect their eyes if it sits close; see noseband mods. ​ Removing rivets? Removal - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TCsn4Ie3zg0 Installation - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l0VJgjHJN1c

Noseband Mods (3 Parts) Please note this page is for changing and replacing nosebands, it does not include cutting down the original noseband muzzles have to help length fit better, this information is in the wire/other length mods tab. Wrapping The Noseband (1) Some members will wrap their nosebands for extra comfort or to cover the wire after modding down the length. This is also recommended to do if you’ve modified your noseband down to the wire. You can use vet wrap, felt, neoprene, yarn etc. Just remember some things stay on/cleaner than others. ​ The pictures show multiple examples of members wrapping their nosebands to either create extra padding or just to make it look nice. Either way, it's a straightforward task for most dog owners. Adding A Noseband/Padding (2) Some muzzles don’t come with a noseband (like greyhound and Baskerville); adding a noseband yourself can help with comfort. Adding a noseband can take some height, depending on how thick you make it. You can add a noseband to these by using vet wrap, yarn, neoprene etc. It was done by wrapping, sewing, gluing or riveting. Adding A Biothane Noseband (3) Some members have removed the nose pad on their wire altogether and replaced it with biothane straps. To do this, you need to remove the rivets from the original nose pad, take it off, measure how much biothane you need, add holes, and use Chicago screws to put it back on. ​ If replaced with biothane, you will need to keep an eye on the dog's nose as it can cause rubbing on some dogs. You could also use vet wrap over the biothane to add more padding for comfort. ​ Usually, you will only need 1/2" biothane for smaller muzzles and 5/8" for larger ones, its always best to measure to make sure, but that is the standard for the most part. Members Custom Noseband (4) This member has gone to a collar maker and asked for custom nosebands to be made to match their dogs harnesses. We love the idea and think it looks great! They've used nylon type material, press studs to easily remove and soft padding underneath. ​ This maker was a friend in Europe so you'd be best finding someone close by to do similar ​ Full credit to Lucia Bohlen for the idea Making A Noseband (5) Items used: Biothane (I used 19mm gold standard) Faux leather sheet (I ordered A4 size) Soft Felt sheet (used 3mm thick) Chicago Screws (4mm) Leather Thread (or thick thread) and Needle Scissors Stanley Knife/box cutters Pencil/ Marker Screwdriver Pliers Glue (optional) Rope (optional) Step 1. Measure the biothane for the length of the muzzle pad and cut it to size. Measure where holes will be for Chicago screws to attach to the muzzle. Drill the holes (used a 4/5mm drill to fit the 4mm Chicago screws) Attach the biothane strip to the muzzle to see if it fits the take off. I kept the flat part of the screws inside the one side of the biothane holes, only taking out the actual screw side. ​ Step 2. Measure felt. One-piece to go underneath the biothane and one piece to go on top. (See diagram) From the diagram, you can see where I cut two pieces out of the felt (top piece) 1 either side, so the screws on the biothane are visible for easy screwing. Stitch the two felts together with the biothane sitting inside. At this point, I cut and glued a soft piece of rope to the top of the felt. (See diagram). This is where the metal of the muzzle would be hitting my dogs face. This acts as a barrier. Measure and wrap faux leather around to cover (diagrams for the shape I used). Again cut two pieces out the same as we did for the felt to allow for re screwing onto the muzzle. (I glued the two leather ends together so that I could stitch without it moving or opening up). Cut felt to size for placement underneath the leather where the nose would touch. (This is optional, but I did it to prevent any rubbing on my dog's nose). (You can use glue lightly to stick the pieces together to make it easier to stitch for the next step. This can stop any movement. ​ Step 3. Stitching it all together, leather and felt, to prevent any moving and to seal the sides. I used leather thread and a thick sharp needle. I went around the edge as neatly as I could. ​ Step 4. Attach to muzzle. I had to get extra hands to help for this as the biothane is thick and to be able to close the Chicago screws I had to use pliers to help press the biothane down for it to line up. I also stitched the nose pad to the muzzle with two loops to keep the rope barrier in place. ​ credit to Sophie Price

RayAllen Vinyl & Plastic Manufacturer: Ray Allen Location: USA Ships: Worldwide Options: 3 sizes, clear and black Sellers: 3+ Scavenge Proof: Yes Bite proof: yes unless clear with treat hole Pros & Cons What is good or bad about these muzzles will depend on the dog, owner and also size. This list below is generalised. PROs: Multiple places to purchase Bite/Scavenge proof (excluding clears with the treat hole) Felt nosebands​ Clear Vinyl and black plastic 3 Strap Options Treat hole option​ CONS: Longer nose lengths More costly Smaller/limited sizes MTT Info Charts Muzzle Training and Tips are the only ones who have a full and accurate size, measurement and weight chart for these muzzles. Most companies use a wildly inaccurate or incomplete chart, which is unfair to customers who should know exactly what they are purchasing. No measurement charts yet Dog Muzzle Charts (none yet) Muzzle Comparison Charts Make & Material The muzzle is made of Clear vinyl or Black polyethylene plastic with reinforced neoprene or leather straps. The clear is flexible vinyl, and available in all sizes/brands mentioned, comes as shown with a single strap configuration or with a "third strap" that extends from the bridge of the dog's nose up between the eyes to connect with the strap behind the ears. Available as shown or with a large "treat hole" in front for most sizes. ​ The black muzzle​ is made of lightweight, high-density polyethylene and available from ray Allen; it comes as shown with a single strap configuration or with a "third strap" that extends from the bridge of the dog's nose up between the eyes to connect with the strap behind the ears. Available as shown or with a large "treat hole" in front for most sizes. ​ All sizes have a felt noseband, and you can easily add quick-release buckles to these straps and modify, decorate etc. Where/How To Purchase Look-A-Likes To tell RAY ALLEN and REDLINE clears apart, the RAY ALLEN has white felt where as the REDLINE has black, with full black straps (unlike JAFCO). Clear: https://www.rayallen.com/ray-allen-clear-muzzle/ Black: https://www.rayallen.com/plastic-dog-muzzle/ Back To Top