Muzzle Straps Mods (3 Parts) Learn how to add a quick release, shorten your straps or add an adjustable strap, this page is aimed towards the straps already on the muzzles but you can do this with any strap. Add A Quick Release (1) Need: Biothane 5/8” Quick-release buckle 5/8” Chicago screws (much safer than standard rivets) Leather hole punch Scissors Measuring tape ​ How to: First, make sure you have a well-fit muzzle. Use the old strap to measure how long you need Cut the piece longer than needed, so you have room to adjust. Remember to add approximately 2” extra for where you fold and rivet. Trim all the corners off the Biothane and burn the ends to keep it sealed. Once everything is cut, you can line up where you need the holes for the rivets. Double-check everything, then hole punch-out where you need. Add the straps and rivets to the muzzle. My strap has extra holes on one side of the quick release. This makes it still adjustable without the need for a buckle. Shortening Muzzle Straps (2) Shortening straps are common on muzzles where the strap received is too long for your dog but has room to shorten without adding holes or replacing the strap. ​ To shorten the straps without cutting, you can fold the straps over on themselves and zip-tie/tape. This is a good option for those who can’t cut/modify the straps. ​ This is commonly done with JAFCO straps since they are usually pretty long on the 'buckle' side, like pictured. Add An Adjustable Strap (3) Coming soon

Securing Mods (3 Parts) More information on Securing a Muzzle. Adding A Chin Strap (1) Making a chin strap is super easy if you have all the materials All you need is 1-2ft of Biothane or leather strapping (width under 3/4” preferred). Some members have also used cut-up nylon collars or strapping. Measure the length you need by having your dog wear the muzzle and measuring under the chin; you need to remember that the chin strap could restrict some dogs pants. It’s a good idea to keep one side longer in case you need to add length. Adding the holes for the rivets on each side, then screwing it on. Check fit while panting and rerivet if needed. ​ How these fit depends on your dog. Not every fit will be the same or work on every dog. This is something you’ll need to work out on your own when making it. Adding A Head Strap (2) You can add a head strap to your muzzle with some work to keep it secure, but you will still need a secure collar or chin strap to keep straps secure. JAFCO: Start by adding a hole to the top of your muzzle (where you want the strap to sit), then rivet in the strap and go over the head and make a loop around the neck strap and rivet again. We would recommend looping around the strap and screwing back to the head strap because the neck-straps are thinner material. Using Chicago screws is preferred to remove/add easily when needed. Plus, they are safer. ​ WIRE: Wire muzzles are easier to add a head strap too. However, it’s usually not needed unless you have a short-nosed dog. Start by screwing one side to the wire on the muzzle in-between the eyes, go up over the head and either loop around the strap and screw/rivet or attach straight to the muzzle strap itself. ​ BASKERVILLE/OTHER: Pretty much the same as above, though these muzzles once again usually don’t need securing by a head strap. Making A Snug Collar (3) I made a few different types of snug collars to show you your options. Whether you use biothane or bungee cord, they are made relatively similar to each other. If you have a different way you have done this, please let us know how and send in some pictures. ​ In the first picture I made a snug collar with D rings in line with the muzzles cheeks, then added carabiners to clip between the D ring and muzzle. This collar is not adjustable and would be made to your dog's measurements. You could adjust by adding leftover length with extra holes on one side of the buckle with a Chicago screw. ​ The second picture I made with a bungee cord is straightforward and a good option for those needing extra room on the dog's neck. Made to the dog's measurements, not too tight or loose, an O/D ring on one end and a clip on the other. This should feed through the cheeks on your muzzle to hold it in place. ​ The third picture is a fully adjustable biothane collar, made similar to above but has the 'tri glide' so you can add length or tighten it.

Noseband Mods (3 Parts) Please note this page is for changing and replacing nosebands, it does not include cutting down the original noseband muzzles have to help length fit better, this information is in the wire/other length mods tab. Wrapping The Noseband (1) Some members will wrap their nosebands for extra comfort or to cover the wire after modding down the length. This is also recommended to do if you’ve modified your noseband down to the wire. You can use vet wrap, felt, neoprene, yarn etc. Just remember some things stay on/cleaner than others. ​ The pictures show multiple examples of members wrapping their nosebands to either create extra padding or just to make it look nice. Either way, it's a straightforward task for most dog owners. Adding A Noseband/Padding (2) Some muzzles don’t come with a noseband (like greyhound and Baskerville); adding a noseband yourself can help with comfort. Adding a noseband can take some height, depending on how thick you make it. You can add a noseband to these by using vet wrap, yarn, neoprene etc. It was done by wrapping, sewing, gluing or riveting. Adding A Biothane Noseband (3) Some members have removed the nose pad on their wire altogether and replaced it with biothane straps. To do this, you need to remove the rivets from the original nose pad, take it off, measure how much biothane you need, add holes, and use Chicago screws to put it back on. ​ If replaced with biothane, you will need to keep an eye on the dog's nose as it can cause rubbing on some dogs. You could also use vet wrap over the biothane to add more padding for comfort. ​ Usually, you will only need 1/2" biothane for smaller muzzles and 5/8" for larger ones, its always best to measure to make sure, but that is the standard for the most part. Members Custom Noseband (4) This member has gone to a collar maker and asked for custom nosebands to be made to match their dogs harnesses. We love the idea and think it looks great! They've used nylon type material, press studs to easily remove and soft padding underneath. ​ This maker was a friend in Europe so you'd be best finding someone close by to do similar ​ Full credit to Lucia Bohlen for the idea Making A Noseband (5) Items used: Biothane (I used 19mm gold standard) Faux leather sheet (I ordered A4 size) Soft Felt sheet (used 3mm thick) Chicago Screws (4mm) Leather Thread (or thick thread) and Needle Scissors Stanley Knife/box cutters Pencil/ Marker Screwdriver Pliers Glue (optional) Rope (optional) Step 1. Measure the biothane for the length of the muzzle pad and cut it to size. Measure where holes will be for Chicago screws to attach to the muzzle. Drill the holes (used a 4/5mm drill to fit the 4mm Chicago screws) Attach the biothane strip to the muzzle to see if it fits the take off. I kept the flat part of the screws inside the one side of the biothane holes, only taking out the actual screw side. ​ Step 2. Measure felt. One-piece to go underneath the biothane and one piece to go on top. (See diagram) From the diagram, you can see where I cut two pieces out of the felt (top piece) 1 either side, so the screws on the biothane are visible for easy screwing. Stitch the two felts together with the biothane sitting inside. At this point, I cut and glued a soft piece of rope to the top of the felt. (See diagram). This is where the metal of the muzzle would be hitting my dogs face. This acts as a barrier. Measure and wrap faux leather around to cover (diagrams for the shape I used). Again cut two pieces out the same as we did for the felt to allow for re screwing onto the muzzle. (I glued the two leather ends together so that I could stitch without it moving or opening up). Cut felt to size for placement underneath the leather where the nose would touch. (This is optional, but I did it to prevent any rubbing on my dog's nose). (You can use glue lightly to stick the pieces together to make it easier to stitch for the next step. This can stop any movement. ​ Step 3. Stitching it all together, leather and felt, to prevent any moving and to seal the sides. I used leather thread and a thick sharp needle. I went around the edge as neatly as I could. ​ Step 4. Attach to muzzle. I had to get extra hands to help for this as the biothane is thick and to be able to close the Chicago screws I had to use pliers to help press the biothane down for it to line up. I also stitched the nose pad to the muzzle with two loops to keep the rope barrier in place. ​ credit to Sophie Price

Incorrect Measuring Methods There is many ways other companies tell you to measure your dog and almost always it is incorrect. Below is some common issues/questions members have when trying to measure their dog. Measuring A Yawn Measuring your dogs yawn instead of their full pant will likely give you a muzzle that is too big/bulky. Dogs do not need full room to yawn as most of the time, their yawns are more significant than full pants, making the muzzle they have incredibly oversized. If your dog can fully pant, they will have enough room for a restricted yawn which is completely fine and much less dangerous than a restricted pant. Shown in the pic: The purple muzzle was sized to fit a yawn but shows full pant is much smaller than the dog's yawn, which made the muzzle too big. Once sized to a muzzle that fit full pant without being big, the dog was much more comfortable. A dog can still yawn and its much less important than breathing or not choking. Measuring Off The Face When taking measurements or pictures of them, you need to make sure the tape measure is as close to the nose/face as possible. Moving the tape away from the face will make the measurement smaller, especially if photographing to send into MTT. ​ As shown in the picture when the dog was measured away from the face with pant measurement was 3.25", we spotted this upon form submission and requested a new picture which shows a much different measurement of 4.5". Unfortunately without pictures there's no way for us to confirm if this has happened which is why we recommend trying to get as many pics of the measurements as possible. Following Other Companies Methods *This does not include custom muzzles.* Unfortunately so many people measure incorrectly which instantly sets them up to get the wrong muzzle, add that to muzzle sizes and measurements usually being wrong (unless using MTTs) you can see how it's so easy to get the wrong fit. ​ Other companies may recommend adding 1-2" of circumference which usually isn't even enough for the smallest of dogs. Or they will not check measurements and blindly assumes your dog sits still and you measured perfectly. You can read more about only using length/circumference in Sizing A Muzzle. How Not To Measure While this picture was made as a joke for our members, it is an excellent example of how not to measure your dog. ​ We feel there is lots of inaccurate information out there on how you should measure your dog, and while it does depend on the dog and the muzzle you want we feel very confident our method (tried by literally 10000+ members) will work best for almost every muzzle and dog. Back To Top

Replacing Muzzle Straps (3 Parts) This page is for replacing the straps on your muzzle. This means removing the ones they come with and adding your own. If you are looking for how to modify the strap you have, you can find this information in the Strap Mods tab. Replacing Wire Straps (1) Need: Biothane 5/8” Quick-release buckle 5/8” Chicago screws (much safer than regular rivets) Leather hole punch Scissors Measuring tape ​ How to: First, make sure you have a well-fit muzzle. Use the old strap to measure how long you need Cut the piece longer than needed, so you have room to adjust. Remember to add approximately 2” extra for where you fold and rivet. Trim all the corners off the Biothane and burn the ends to keep it sealed. Once everything is cut, you can line up where you need the holes for the rivets. Double-check everything, then hole punch-out where you need. Add the straps and rivets to the muzzle. My strap has extra holes on one side of the quick release. This makes it still adjustable without the need for a buckle. Replacing JAFCO Straps (2) You can replace straps on JAFCO too; it’s pretty easy to do as long as you have the suitable materials. This is helpful for specific Jafco sizes where the straps are at the wrong angle for the dog. First Pics (black JAFCO) was done by removing the rivets and replacing them with a biothane strap. The following pics (clear JAFCO) are my pictures and steps, which I will go over below. You can click each pic for the steps. Materials I used: 1/2" and 5/8" biothane (depends on what you prefer) 6mm and 8mm post Chicago screws (thickness of your JAFCO + doubled biothane) 5/8" quick release buckle Hole punch Snips ​ Done this mod? Send us your pics :) One of our awesome members gave us great pics of them modifying their JAFCO muzzle. The steps on how to are on the pictures (click them). Replacing Other Straps (3) Chinstrap: Most greyhound muzzles will need the chin strap removed for dogs that aren’t sighthounds. They are placed far back and tight (made for a sighthound's long/slim head). ​ Using scissors, you can remove just the strap to the muzzle or the whole chin strap. Make sure you don’t cut the wrong straps. ​ Replacing the straps: Some people have replaced the straps on their greyhound muzzles. This is pretty much the same as the other strap mods above on other brands of the muzzle.

Making a Biothane Muzzle (5 Parts) Learn how to make a biothane muzzle, how you can reinforce one or just check out other examples of DIY Biothane muzzles. Reinforcing Biothane (1) We have had a member that has reinforced their biothane muzzle to help with strength. While we wouldn't recommend trusting it on significant dogs/ determined bite risks, it is always an option for extra precaution. “The metal bars are actually bendable bracelets I got off Amazon; they take some effort and thumbs to bend. And I used a consumption safe once cured silicone adhesive. I plan to add some on the sides as well for extra security.” This biothane muzzle was made by TDYM; it came custom with the treat hole. Pics and info by Tatyonna Jordan Some examples of DIY biothane, you can use cardboard to demo and test the size you are making then make based on that. Making A Biothane Muzzle (2) Materials needed: biothane, 9mm (or 3/8"), 13mm (or 1/2") (these are the ones I've found to work best but may vary depending on your dog's size) Chicago screws (3/16", the number will depend on how many straps you want/need but expect to need a fair amount) leather or hollow punch (hollow punch is more straightforward, and you'll need to use less force, usually makes cleaner holes) lighter (to clean up and seal the biothane edges whenever you cut or make a hole) sharp scissors tape measure buckle padding (neoprene, air mesh, felt etc.) - don't necessarily need to pad the biothane but might as well STEP 1 You can skip this part, but you should make a paper or cardboard model first if you're unsure. It'll give you more room for error, and once you figure out the exact length and strap placements, you can get straight to it with the biothane. Credit- Aylin Da There are several different designs, but the one I used for this has a single strap that goes both around the back of the neck and over the nose, which creates an X under the jaw/near the neck. This adds extra stability and security. I used a 13mm (or 1/2") biothane for this. STEP 2 The next strap you'll attach will go from one side of the head, around the front of your dog's nose, to the other side. It should not be touching the dog's nose but should not be too far away. The exact distance is up to you. You can cut the strap to the same length you need and only make one hole on each side or make it adjustable by leaving the strap longer and making several holes. I used a 13mm (or 1/2") biothane for this. STEP 3 The following straps will be attached on each side of the X under the jaw and go to the front under the nose (see step 5 if you don't want/need a nose free design). Make sure they're long enough to accommodate a full pant. I left them a bit longer than necessary at first, but this can easily be fixed later. You can always take off some more length later, but you can't just put it back on. I used a 9mm (or 3/8") biothane for this. STEP 4 Attach the vertical straps that go over the dog's nose. You can do it with one long strap that goes around in its entirety like a spiral, or you can use several shorter straps that go around once each. I used a 9mm (or 3/8") biothane for this. STEP 5 Attach the top straps. I made mine "nose free", as shown in the example where the straps don't go entirely straight, or you can attach them straight but cut them short enough so they go from the strap in front of the eyes to the strap closest to the nose (on top). If you don't want/need nose free, you can just have the straps from step 3 go all the way to the top. I used 9mm (or 3/8") biothane for this. STEP 6 Attach the horizontal straps that go around the front of the dog's nose I used 9mm (or 3/8") biothane for this. How many straps you need in steps 4 and 6 depends on your dog's measurements and how closed off you want the muzzle to be. STEP 7 - OPTIONAL Add padding - either all straps that are lying on the dog's nose or just the one in front of the eyes. Add head strap - using one piece of biothane screwed from between the eyes to the strap behind ears. Looped around neck strap or screwed onto it. More Biothane Muzzle Examples (3) FIRST MUZZLE (First 4 pics) We have had a member that has cleverly made a mock-up muzzle using cardboard/paper and tape. This is an excellent idea in ensuring that the muzzle you make will fit well without constantly checking on your dog's face. ​ Made very similar to the method above. Credit to Karli Mae Leap ​ SECOND MUZZLE (next 2 pics) This member has worked on a biothane muzzle for a French Bulldog. You can see how this muzzle is different to normal ones made for this breed as it allows for a pant and is not tight over their snout/mouth. ​ Credit to Tracey Mammen ​ THIRD MUZZLE (Last 4 pics) We have had a member that made a colourful biothane muzzle that looks great on their dog. They used adjustable nylon for the strap to secure it. ​ Made very similar to the methods above. ​ Credit to Sandra Selak

Exchange/Return Policy CANCEL ORDER I am happy to cancel your order if the muzzle has not been processed for shipping, if shipped you will first need to receive the muzzle then follow the information below to request a refund. RETURNS/EXCHANGES Please remember: If a size does not fit that does not mean the product is incorrect or defective (we can work out an exchange/refund rather than a PayPal case) When sizing through MTT program, I will not always be right the first time but will be happy to help resize and get the correct size to you. Exchanges: You have 90 days from the day of delivery to request an exchange. To start an exchange Contact Us with the following information. 2-3 pictures of the muzzle/s including the tag/s 2-3 pictures of your dog wearing the muzzle (for resizing, if you haven’t completed a fit form before) 2-3 pictures of your dog panting (for resizing, if you haven’t completed a sizing/fit form before) Order number If you were sized by MTT before purchasing the muzzle, I will be happy to cover the cost of sending the new muzzle (you only pay the shipping on the muzzle you send back, usually this is to a location close by to you to cut costs greatly). If you were NOT sized by MTT before purchasing the muzzle you will need to cover the cost of sending the new muzzle too (cost depends on size/weight but is usually $22AUD). As well as cover the cost of sending the other size back. Once the muzzle/s are returned your new order will be shipped out, if you need to keep the muzzle you have for training whilst waiting for the new size just let me know, happy to process the exchange before return but shipping cost will need to be covered (approx $22AU). Return/Refunds: You have 30 days from the day of delivery to request a return. To start a return Contact Us with the following information. 2-3 pictures of the muzzle/s including the tag/s Order number Your products must be unused and the same condition as received (tried on is fine). If they are modified/used I may accept the return at a lowered amount (to be discussed). Once your items are returned a refund to the original payment method will be made (minus shipping costs and fees). Once processed you will get the money back within 5-10 days depending on payment method. Fees are $10AUD (if not sized by MTT), Shipping cost is the amount on your original purchase. While I am happy to return I would suggest selling them locally as they are always popular and you won’t lose as much on them, the other option is to let me know you want to sell them and I can see if I can find a buyer for you. DAMAGES/WRONG ORDER Please inspect your order when received and contact us immediately if the item is defective, damaged or incorrect so we can fix it asap. Please do not open a case before contacting me first, I am happy to resend a new muzzle and in most cases I add in an extra size to be sure you get the right fit after waiting for the first order. Please follow the information above on refund/exchanging.

Incorrect Sizing Methods Using Only Length & Circumference For example, these two muzzles pictured are the same length and circumference. Are they the same shape in the slightest? No! Two completely different dogs would wear these muzzles. One width is 3” the other 5”. One height is 5.5” the other closer to 4.5”. There is absolutely no way to correctly size with only these measurements. ​ To prove this, please tell me which of these muzzles is the widest and which is the tallest: ​ 4" x 12" 3"x 13" 4" x 12.5" ​ I could keep going, but as shown, there is no way to correctly size based on these two measurements on a muzzle, especially when they offer nothing towards the actual shape of the muzzle. Circumference does not show width or closed height, which are more important than length. Another example would be the CHOPO 18F/69C and 17F/66C. Most company size charts have the same length and circumference but are entirely different muzzles. The 18F with much less height and a longer chin causes it not to fit the dog in everything, including length. ​ If they had a height measurement, they would have known one would not have worked for their dog before purchasing. The right pic was a bit big for the dog, so they sized down, but the image is a perfect example of why following their measurements helps nothing, especially when we have 6+ on nearly every muzzle. Who Does It Correctly MTT has gotten all the essential measurements for you, but many other companies measure their muzzles well. Some are more accurate than others, but it's still better than the two measurements you get from some places. ​ IF you see the sizing chart mention height, be sure to check if it's front or back height and the shape of the muzzle. Some muzzles are shorter at the front, and they'll measure the height at the back. The width could also be front or back unless specified. Any other measurements are a bonus, and the more they have, the more accurate the chart will be. ​ TYDM is a custom company but a great example of how two measurements don't just size dogs. Most European companies are good at getting more measurements and reasonably accurate too. Chicundscharf is recommended. Both FDT and DT use more than two measurements, but they are pretty off when measured by MTT properly. We have every size measured anyway, so we shouldn't need their chart. Prestige wire in aus also had their muzzles measured well. ​ You don't need every measurement as we get, but you still need something to show the height or width of the muzzle; otherwise, it is a complete gamble when purchasing. Sizing By Yawn Size Sizing based on your dog yawning is not accurate since this will oversize the fit, you can learn more about this in Measuring Your Dog BACK TO TOP

Pant Information & FAQ The size of a muzzle matters greatly when something like a dog panting is part of a necessary function to live a healthy life. Used incorrectly muzzles can injure your dog (or worse). Ensuring your dog can properly breathe, cool down and vomit is essential when sizing a muzzle. You can find more information on why a muzzle should fit a dogs pant on Why Size Matters. What Is A Regular Pant? This is your dogs regular or daily pants. Usually the pant they'll have on a casual walk/play or even just slightly stressed. It's harder to judge regular pants if it often changes depending on what you're doing. If this were the case for your dog, we recommend sizing to full pants. Muzzle for regular pants is suitable for grooming, the vets, travelling etc., where a full pant isn't as needed. This is also why some muzzles will look big when panting because the dog is only regular panting in a 'full pant height' muzzle. What Is A Full Pant? This is your dogs fullest pants. Usually, after exercise, playing, high stress, hot days etc. Ensuring your muzzle fits a full pant correctly when needed is essential to keep them safe. Full pant is always recommended if you have a dog with breathing or heat issues. If you're unsure of what you need, the best option would be to go for a full pant size in case, or some people purchase a muzzle for each pant to suit exactly what they need. FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS Can you/I size without a full or regular pant? Yes! Whilst it is recommended to get these, you can size without the pictures mentioned it is more likely to be an incorrect fit on the first try for full pants, so make sure you approximate well. - My dog does not pant? Whilst some dogs are an exception, not seeing your dog pant likely means you have not worked them enough (if safe) to full pant. You may need to exercise/play more to ensure it doesn't get bigger. Exceptions would be medical issues, new dogs or truly small pants. - We just want a muzzle for inside? Even an indoors/low activity muzzle still needs to fit a regular pant, at least. Any smaller is too small and not appropriate for use. No panting doesn't mean they shouldn't have the room; if your dog were to escape or need to vomit, the space is essential to keep your dog safe. - Summer vs Winter full pants? Some dogs also have different sized full pants in summer compared to winter. The easiest way to size this is to go with the most important measurement to suit all seasons. Or you could purchase two muzzles. - I definitely can't get a pant pic, what should I do? Some dogs will not pant enough for helpful pictures when sizing. Whilst this is unfortunate, it doe not mean the end with no other options. Instead, make sure you can get additional info we ask for and let us know roughly how big the pant is when you have seen them previously. - What issues can a muzzle too small for pant cause? Breathing issues, overheating, choking, stress, heightened aggression or reactivity, inability to yawn, rubbing, bruising, negative associations and much more. You wouldn't hold their mouth shut and ask them to deal with it happily for hours at a time whilst eating, drinking and playing. It's abuse. - How can I tell if it fits my dogs pant? The obvious answer is if your dog can't pant, it's too small, but sometimes the fit is too close to tell from just trying it on. The best way to check is to use it while keeping an eye on your dog to watch for any restrictions, rubbing, new pawing etc. Read over fitting a muzzle for more info. Back To Top

Bite/Scavenge Proof Bite-Proof or Not? As explained in Should You Muzzle , there are plenty of reason to muzzle your dog but when selecting a muzzle there is two main categories. They are bite-proof and scavenge-proof. Some muzzles are one or the other but other muzzles like JAFCO are good for both. Whether MTT class your dog as a bite risk or not depends on a few things though the choice is fairly simple. ​ Need Bite-Proof: If your dog has bitten, attacked, growled, is reactive, gets nervous, is anxious, is not known to you etc, whether or not you have ever seen their teeth or if they have bitten. The point is that you need a bite proof muzzle to ensure if this ever does happen, the situation can be kept safe and under control. You should not use muzzles that are not bite-proof. ​ Don't Need Bite-Proof: If your dog shows 0 signs of aggression, no anxiety, no reactivity, is trusted/known etc then your dog does not need a bite-proof muzzle. This means they can use non bite proof muzzles, but they can also use bite proof ones. ​ If you aren't sure then your dog is automatically in the needs bite proof category because why take the chance, a bite proof muzzle would be much better suit to ensure if anything goes wrong or continues to get worse. These categories are JUST FOR MTT, and has nothing to do with 'bite levels' or 'all dogs could bite'. This is just to decide whether or not you need a bite-proof muzzle. ​ Scavenge-Proof or Not? ​ Need Scavenge-Proof If your dog licks, eats rocks/sticks, lives in a baited area etc then they are also a 'scavenger' and will need a scavenge proof muzzle as well as whatever muzzle choice needed above. This can narrow down your options further but most non scavenge proof muzzles can also be modded to stop scavenging/licking. ​ Don't Need Scavenge-Proof If you don't worry about your dog doing any of the above then you pretty much have no restrictions on the muzzles you can try (as long as they aren't unsafe or not recommended). ​ To check out which brands will work for you, read over muzzle options linked further up the page or use the comparing muzzle options tab above. BACK TO TOP